| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| acd1984 |
Posted - 18/08/2011 : 20:05:46
Hi guys, just a couple of qustions about varnish. Iv gone with a quick dry low voc varnish for my caves and background.
1, what effect does varnish have on polystyrene? just incase i miss a spot when grouting or if the grout is a little thin in that area.
2. I know varnish takes a few weeks to cure, but will my hide be ready to go straight in with the snake then or would i need to do something else? (im thinking more about any toxins that are released when heated) |
| 10 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| sandi |
Posted - 25/08/2011 : 21:05:44
Quick dry varnish is acrylic and will be water based, it wont hurt polystyrene. Oil based paint and varnish will melt polystyrene as will most glues except for latex rubber based glue.
Acrylic mediums usually take 2-3 weeks to cure. |
| chrisc |
Posted - 21/08/2011 : 22:39:44
i will probly leave the doors off but cover the holw with a sheet or something to keep the heat in an let the fumes out. although there is a 4" wide vent that runs the length of the viv |
| n/a |
Posted - 21/08/2011 : 22:31:25
Sorry can't find it - perhaps just as well, a sad story. Basically it is just that, to run the viv for a while with heating on, and let fumes disperse ...one thing does puzzle me - shouldn't the doors be left open part way to let fumes out? Perhaps someone else will know?? |
| chrisc |
Posted - 21/08/2011 : 22:30:21
thanks |
| n/a |
Posted - 21/08/2011 : 22:21:18
So I understand. I've never done this myself but a good while back there was a thread on this, bit of a cautionary tale, alas ... ...I will try to dig it out and post link. |
| chrisc |
Posted - 21/08/2011 : 22:09:36
with regard to yacht varnish im building a viv for my rat snake thats been coated in it i did not realise it releases more fumes when heated. its been drying in the garage for a week and ive gone over it with a very hot hair dryer to dry it a bit quicker, the smell has nearly gone. i take it i just need to heat it with the mat/bulb till theres no smell? |
| acd1984 |
Posted - 19/08/2011 : 22:04:25
thanks jhk2005, If im not mistaken the quick dry stuff is water based, if I test a small area would that show any visible problems that I may have do you think? |
| jhk2005 |
Posted - 19/08/2011 : 19:20:56
Hi Andy, just noticed your question - i've done a lot of modelling (wargames/scenery) over the years so i'd use 2 coats of grouting just to be sure everthing's sealed. Varnish/spray paints (anything that isn't water-based) will eat through polystyrene like a hot knife through butter.
Even adhesives like 'uhu' glue will destroy it if its not sealed. You could always try a thin coat of pva over it all to seal it first before painting and then varnishing it shouldn't be a prob. hope this helps mate |
| acd1984 |
Posted - 19/08/2011 : 16:54:50
Thanks bats, I got B&Qs version of ronseal quick dry stuff, it is quite rubbery but hopefully thats a good thing and wont crack too easily. |
| n/a |
Posted - 18/08/2011 : 21:25:31
I used Wilkinsons' interior varnish, low-emission, the kind you can wash off the brush with soap and water, left my salt dough hides to cure for three weeks after 3 coats, and they've been fine, even under heat lamps.
The only thing I noticed about the varnish is that it tends to be a little bit rubbery, and aspen sticks to the rims of the hides sometimes, but really no problem with heat
Amendment - I know that the tough yacht varnish needed to seal the interior of some wooden vivs has to be given a period to cure when the viv is up and running; the heating causes it to emit more fumes and these have to be gone before the snake goes into the viv. I'm assuming the curing period for hides etc (I put mine in a warm room on top of my viv stack) takes care of any danger, plus the varnish being low-emission makes it safer. |
