| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| AlannaJohan |
Posted - 26/06/2010 : 13:59:41
So, having done a good old searchy on the forum, I figured I might as well just get straight into asking you guys my questions in one fell swoop.
I have quickly begun to realise that the shop I bought my wee bubbah from is perhaps not the most knowledgable on reptiles - recommending a large, uncluttered viv with a UV light but no thermostat being a good example. Which means admitting that I didn't do all the research I should have too, obviously  But hey, be honest about your mistakes and you can start to rectify them, right? And I'm certainly trying to make up for it with some reading now!!
On which note, I decided today to really review my current keeping methods and check them out with the more experienced. To make it easier and more succinct for you guys to answer, I've tried to break it down into numbered questions.
1) Realistically I don't have any idea what sex Bruce is though I continue to call him a him  - I assume if I was very curious I would be able to take him to a reputable reptile shop (or an experienced keeper) to do this for me. Should I be bothered about finding out though?
2) I also decided to weigh him today (don't tell my partner I used his lunchbox as a container though  )! I'm still keeping handling to a minimum while he's settling, so he was very convenient when i moved him from viv to scales and just balled up, though looked positively lairy when I popped him back in, posing all strikey coiled at the glass for a few seconds before he huffed into his hide. Anyhow, he came out at 250g which if I've read correctly means I should be feeding him about 25g worth of food. The place I bought him from recommended mice fuzzies, 1 once a week. The scales I own weigh in 25g increments, which made exacting on a smaller scale difficult, but I think they're weighing in at barely 10g, if that. So does that mean I am feeding entirely too little? Should I be feeding him two or move onto weaned mice or go straight to rat fuzzies? And is every 7 days ok for this size of snake?
3) And for future reference: I'm following the advice of 3 or so consecutive feeds before I start handling. I know not to handle too close to feeding - before or after - and was given the impression that 2 or 3 days after feeding AND 1-2 days before feeding is a good guideline. Which means - if I'm staying weekly and feeding every Friday - for minimum stress I should socially handle between Mondays and Wednesdays? Does that makes sense to everybody here?
4) As said, the viv recommendations I was given by the shop weren't exactly the best. Its outer dimensions are 36" long, 14" deep and 16" tall; heating comes from 1 large hheat mat under what I think is an orchid bark substrate. I've got 2 analogue thermometers set at either end of the tank and temperature seems pretty steady when monitored throughout the day with the cool end coming in at 29-30 C, warm end 33-34 C. Lay out is with the hde closer to warm end, water bowl at the cool end. I'm intent on getting it looking more cluttered asap, but otherwise how is this sounding? Does this seem adequate, or should I really move onto a thermostated lamp with this size of viv instead?
And finally....
5) The viv came supplied with a UV light that at the moment I have switched on for 12 hours during the day and turn off for 12 hours at night. I've read that a UV light is completely unecessary however - apart from wasting electricity - is there any harm in me continuing to do the on-off method I've adopted at current merely for aesthetic purposes?
I will admit Bruce has occasionally climbed onto the teeny bit of lighting cable at the back of the viv, dislodging it from the holder for me find hanging loose in the morning. I was hoping once I had some more climbing material in this viv he would be less inclined to do that, but is that likely? I certainly wouldn't want to risk him damaging himself on it and if its the best idea will get rid of the light, even though I find it pretty. I would assume a heating lamp - if I were to switch from the mat - would compensate in terms of visibility anyway?
Right, I think thats about it for the mo  . Thanks in advance for taking the time to trawl through my wordiness and for any advice you can offer. I do appreciate it 
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| 8 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| AlannaJohan |
Posted - 26/06/2010 : 21:45:14
Thanks for the advice and welcome Chris. I think I'll take your advice and use my remaining mice as supplements in moving onto rats.
And I can proudly say that Bruce took both mice tonight with no problem One less stress
So, next plan of action is to ditch the UV, go source some ratties & a decent lamp / stat set up and clutter up that viv. All good stuff :) |
| heaton177 |
Posted - 26/06/2010 : 16:10:08
quote:
Last time Bruce was happier feeding without the tongs doing the wiggle bit. Should I pop them both in at the same time or give them an hour inbetween?
i done the same as you because the shop owner said, "you willbe okay feeding with your hands they wont bite"
but mine bit whilst i was holding his food he didnt mean to, sometimes they are just bad aims.
when i sometimes i fed him on mice and i went on to rat weaners, i still had some mice left so fed them at the same time, i dfrosted them at the same time fed him the 1st waited for a bit until he looked like he had finished and then offered the 2nd n he took it.
welcome to the forum :)
chris |
| Blackecho |
Posted - 26/06/2010 : 15:00:30
Offer him the second when the first reaches the stomach. |
| AlannaJohan |
Posted - 26/06/2010 : 14:29:34
quote:
Originally posted by Blackecho
Yeah, if your Royal will take multiple feeds, why not
Haha! You know I'm going to be fretting now about successfully feeding 2 at a time. Last time Bruce was happier feeding without the tongs doing the wiggle bit. Should I pop them both in at the same time or give them an hour inbetween? Dear Lord, you're gonna get sick of my questions soon, lol! |
| Blackecho |
Posted - 26/06/2010 : 14:25:15
Yeah, if your Royal will take multiple feeds, why not |
| AlannaJohan |
Posted - 26/06/2010 : 14:21:23
Actually, reading your post again, I have 4 of these evidently too small mice left. Should I just feed 2 at a time till I've got some alternative food items? |
| AlannaJohan |
Posted - 26/06/2010 : 14:19:10
Thank you for your post BE (much more succinct and to the point than my own, lol)! I shall start working on an action plan |
| Blackecho |
Posted - 26/06/2010 : 14:10:43
1) Only if you want to breed them.
2) A Royal will never need mouse fuzzies, they can take a small adult mouse from hatching. Ideally get them onto rats (ruzzies or small weaners), or medium mice are about 25g I think.
3) The only day prior to feeding I wouldn't handle on is the actual day of feeding, then I leave 48hours post-feeding.
4) Sounds a bit warm to me, I'd want both ends about 2C cooler. Also, I am not a big fan of heat mats as Royals get larger and go into 3' vivs, I'd use a lamp (Ceramic or IR) on an appropriate stat and ditch the mat.
5) Get rid of it, it serves no real purpose but they do flicker which can annoy the snake and if it can be climbed on and crushed it will be eventually! |
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