| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| DoNotDelete |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 19:31:59
I have a number of questions so I'm gonna try and organise this post as best I can to make those questions clear for anybody kind enough to offer advice (please bear with me):
My female royal python has been with me for at least two weeks now and she's doing generally okay though a week ago she shed her skin and retained a few patches of skin on her nose.
Question 1: How important is it to remove patches of retained shed; I know it's important to remove retained eye caps and tail skin, but what about patches elsewhere?
The morning after she had shed her skin I took her out of her viv and sat with her on my lap while I touched the patches of retained skin on her nose with a warm, damp sponge - eventually the piece right at the front of her nose lifted away, but stayed stuck at the point where it meets her mouth. I don't know if it was a good idea but I held the free part of my skin with my fingers and - with a little effort - the skin was released as my royal pulled back.
Question 2: If there is any resistance in the skin coming away is it better to leave it and try again the next day than to forcibly remove it?
This took almost an hour to achieve, and I became aware of my royal becoming more defensive as I was persistently touching the sponge to her nose, so once I had removed the large portion of retained shed on her nose (the part with the nostril scales), I decided it would be better to leave the smaller piece on her right lip until another time.
Though I was concerned I had overly distressed her by handling her for so long while I removed the larger piece of retained shed, she did eat the next day, so I hope that means she doesn't hold anything against me.
Question 3: Is it better to risk over-handling a royal by taking the time to gently remove a patch of skin on their head, or is it better to try and restrain the head for quick address of head-related problems?
It's only been two weeks but though she was fairly active the first two nights, recently she's taken to spending the majority of her time hiding out in the vivarium.
Question 4: Do I need to worry about how often my royal comes out of her hide?
I would be okay with this but I worry that she's not getting enough fluids because I haven't seen her take much interest in her water bowls (I'm unsure of how often a royal python really needs to drink).
Question 5: How often does a royal need to drink, if ever?
Question 6: Where is the best place in the viv to place the water bowl - at the back of the viv or near the front glass?
I have the entrance to her hide facing the glass and wonder if this is preventing her from feeling comfortable enough to venture out of the hide more frequently.
I intend to face the opening to the hide away from the glass next time I clean out and set up her viv.
Question 7: How should I position a royal python's hide for the snake's best interests?
I have also wondered if it might be better to cover the glass of her vivarium at night so she might be able to pull up some more confidence to venture out of her hide.
Question 8: Is it ever advisable to put a towel/cloth over the vivarium glass (if only at at night) to help improve the snake's 'venturing out' confidence?
I would appreciate any advice on the issues raised here, I'm well read on looking after snakes and have been reading the guides and forums here at theroyalpythonforum but practically speaking I'm a total newbie.
Don't feel like you have to answer all of the questions at once, any pointers/advisor notes on any of the questions would be greatly appreciated. |
| 12 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Strawb |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 20:41:42
I done the same as Blackskull and put a damp flannel over the warm end hide that Tia was in. I also put damp towels inside the viv and this really helped up the humidity. Result: a complete shed. Well, the tail came off on its own.
Positioning of the hide entrance isn't as important as the hide location. One in the warm end and one in the cool. Also I've noticed that Tia tends to be a real fidgetarse when she's in them and as a result her hide tend to turn around and wander a bit.
As for coming out of her hides. When I'm all tucked up in bed and having nice snakey dreams, Tia is checking out her viv. I know this because I've come down to my office a couple of times late at night and caught her.
Like BATS I place the water bowl at the front of the viv for easy access. |
| DoNotDelete |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 20:33:21
quote:
Originally posted by sandi
Others here have said all that i would say but better put! only thing i would add is that 2 hides are esential, one in the hot end and one in the cool end and other areas too would be appreciated by a young royal. The more you pack out the viv the more secure she will feel.
I have bought a second hide for her and have only put off placing it in her vivarium for fear of unduly distressing her (she's only had two weeks to settle into her current viv layout).
However, because she's eating well and I need to get her out of the viv tomorrow anyway I may set it up and see what she makes of it.
Thanks for your comments. |
| sandi |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 20:27:57
Hiya,
A rub is a 'relly useful box'. Some people like to keep their snakes in large enough rubs as a permanent home, others like me, just use a smaller rub as a safe area to keep our snake whilst cleaning out the vivarium and other maintenance jobs.
Others here have said all that i would say but better put! only thing i would add is that 2 hides are esential, one in the hot end and one in the cool end and other areas too would be appreciated by a young royal. The more you pack out the viv the more secure she will feel. |
| DoNotDelete |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 20:22:28
quote:
Originally posted by blackskull
no rub stands for really usefull box. some people keep their snakes in these in racks they take up less space than vivs so you have room for more
Oh I see; Thanks for the clarification.
quote:
Originally posted by Lotabob
My corn exploded out of his skin yesterday (or it seemed that way), humidity is really low here at the moment so I think it may be common for the near future, I stuck him in a breakfast bowl of water and just let him spin round my hands and it just fell off him. That was my first bad shed, the important bit is keep calm. Most Royals wont fit in a breakfast bowl but the idea is the same, moist them up and apply gentle friction. Snakes are transported in pillowcases up and down the country so don't worry about putting them in one, it actually keeps them calm.
I'll check out Penelope's nose again tomorrow (I've had to leave her alone the past 48 hours because she ate) and I may give the pillowcase idea a go if she's in a good mood.
Thanks again for the information/guidance. |
| Lotabob |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 20:21:44
My corn exploded out of his skin yesterday (or it seemed that way), humidity is really low here at the moment so I think it may be common for the near future, I stuck him in a breakfast bowl of water and just let him spin round my hands and it just fell off him. That was my first bad shed, the important bit is keep calm. Most Royals wont fit in a breakfast bowl but the idea is the same, moist them up and apply gentle friction. Snakes are transported in pillowcases up and down the country so don't worry about putting them in one, it actually keeps them calm. |
| blackskull |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 20:18:23
no rub stands for really usefull box. some people keep their snakes in these in racks they take up less space than vivs so you have room for more |
| DoNotDelete |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 20:09:32
Thanks for your input, blackskull.
quote:
Originally posted by blackskull
different people have different ways of setting up their vivs or rubs and views will differ. its a case of finding what works for you and keeps your snake happy and healthy
I have a number of rough-surfaced items and silk foliage in my vivarium - are these what you would generally refer to as 'rubs'?
If you have any pointers about what you consider to be a good rub I would very much like to hear.
quote:
Originally posted by blackskull
sorry for over lapping there were no other posts when i started lol
Don't worry about it; I'd like to hear as many different opinions as possible. |
| blackskull |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 20:01:36
personally i have never had any probs with retained shed. when mine go blue i place a damp flannel on top of my hot hide under the heat bulb to increase the humidity. i think i have heard about placeing the snake in a damp pillow case for a while so as they move around it helps lift the skin
u don't need to worry about how often they come out of thier hide they are a shy snake. but each snake is different. my normal will stay in his hide for a couple of days after a feed but is out most of the time. my pastel though will spend most of her time in her hide and if im lucky i will catch a glimpse of her late at night
im not sure how often they need to drink, i have only seen my normal dink a few times in the time i have had him and not seen my pastel drink yet
i keep my watel bowls near the hot end this seems to keep the humidity in mine at the right level
i have 2 hides in each of my 3 vivs, 1 at cold end, 1 at hot end just off set from the heat builb and all the openings face out
it wouldn't hurt to put a cover over the front of the viv at night, i myself have never done this. if im in the bedroom with the light on and want to look at them i just slowly go up to the vivs and don't make any sudden movements
different people have different ways of setting up their vivs or rubs and views will differ. its a case of finding what works for you and keeps your snake happy and healthy
sorry for over lapping there were no other posts when i started lol |
| n/a |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 19:58:23
LOL - Bob - great minds think alike! |
| DoNotDelete |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 19:56:33
Thank you very much for your input, Lotabob.
Yeah, I have the water bowl at the front so I can change it easily.
That's also what I was thinking with the hide, and I'll keep using the towel to cover the glass for the time being.
quote:
Originally posted by BurnedAtTheStake
Hi, she sounds fine, especially with the eating.
I know what you mean about the shed; my Shahi had a few scruffy 'shreds' as a baby and I worry that I was a bit over-zealous about bathing and removing stuck skin (although like your Penelope, he seemed to forgive me.) Since being on this forum a while, I would be inclined to put a snake with stuck shed into a damp pillowcase, tie the pillowcase at the top, and leave in a ventilated rub in a warm place or in the viv for 30 mins or so, with sensible supervision of course. The friction of the damp fabric may loosen the shed as the snake squirms about. You're absolutely right about the eyecaps and tailtip being the crucial bits to remove.
This damp pillowcase idea sounds really good, and though I'm a little concerned about tying Penelope up in a damp pillowcase I will bear it in mind.
quote:
Originally posted by BurnedAtTheStake
Hope this helps - sorry if I overlapped with anyone else.
No, don't worry about overlapping; If anything I'd like to hear as many different viewpoints as possible (hopefully there is a degree of agreement on most points though). |
| n/a |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 19:55:56
Hi, she sounds fine, especially with the eating.
I know what you mean about the shed; my Shahi had a few scruffy 'shreds' as a baby and I worry that I was a bit over-zealous about bathing and removing stuck skin (although like your Penelope, he seemed to forgive me.) Since being on this forum a while, I would be inclined to put a snake with stuck shed into a damp pillowcase, tie the pillowcase at the top, and leave in a ventilated rub in a warm place or in the viv for 30 mins or so, with sensible supervision of course. The friction of the damp fabric may loosen the shed as the snake squirms about. You're absolutely right about the eyecaps and tailtip being the crucial bits to remove.
I put water bowls at the front of the vivs, simply because they're easier to remove and replace. If the snake needs to drink, it'll drink - don't worry about that.
Yeah, I've been placing hide openings to face the backs of the vivs, but I'm not really sure if the snakes are bothered. I'm a bit of a worrybucket, and it makes me feel better lol. And yes, when a snake's new, I've often hung a towel over the cold half of the viv (where the snake usually hangs out.) Somehow you know when the time comes to remove it, but if Penelope's tucked up in her hide most of the time, and eating well, sounds like she's content and private and happy enough.
You both sound as if you're doing fine.
Hope this helps - sorry if I overlapped with anyone else. |
| Lotabob |
Posted - 02/05/2011 : 19:50:14
1) Not really, as long as the eye caps and tail section are off. Just put some damp moss in a hide and see if the snake cant get the bits off by themselves.
2)NEVER pull the skin off, it could take the new skin with it.
3)Stressing the snake is never a good idea, can cause short term and long term problems like feeding, aggression etc.
4)Royals rarely do anything. The last time I saw my Royal he came out for his meal on Friday. He only ever comes out for food or drink when I'm around though he moves around when the lights are off and everything goes quiet.
5)When they are thirsty. Provide fresh water at all times, changing it daily.
6)Anywhere in the cooler side, I have mine at the front, its the only place it will fit.
7)Turn it slightly so you cant look straight into it or as I have done, put some foliage by the entrance.
8)I do this with all my snakes when they first arrive but wean them off it by slowly rolling it up a bit at a time. |
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