| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| frambo |
Posted - 04/12/2011 : 10:24:29
Hi all,
Just been working on her new setup.
There's a few things still to happen such as the covering of wires, getting some proper hides and a larger water bowl as well as some backing. I would've got a viv but these tanks are normally £200 or something and I have a lot lying around the place.
First off, are my probes in the right place?
As you can see, humidity is too high. If I drill some holes in the wood on top, that will lower the humidity right? But will that let too much ambient warm air escape?
And if I do drill the holes, should they be in the warm end or the cool end? My thinking (correct me if I'm wrong) was:
Warm End: Humidity will decrease due to ventilation and some warm air will escape. However this warm air will be easily replaced by the heat from the bulb.
Cold End: Ambient temperature will decrease due to the air escaping. So will humidity.
So on that note, I'm guessing it should be warm end vented?
Thanks
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| 7 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| n/a |
Posted - 04/12/2011 : 19:49:32
Bless her, the little gannet!
But - it's best to leave at least 5 days between feeds, more for older royals, to allow for digestion.
Plus - she'll end up with a big bum - snakes can suffer from obesity and it shortens their lives.
Know how you feel though - I've got a few gannets myself and I sometimes feel so mean, keeping to their designated feeding days ... |
| frambo |
Posted - 04/12/2011 : 18:55:56
Thanks for all the advice people, all very helpful. So far, it all seems to be good, she's due to shed tonight so the higher humidity is a good thing for the time being... tomorrow I'll drill some more holes to get it down.
I'm very impressed with her, even though she's going to shed she still downed a (albeit, small) mouse today. A batch of rats is due in on Tuesday... can't wait to see what she'll make of those!
On that note, she's currently eating every 5 days but I know she'd accept more. Can you over feed a royal, provided she's shedding well, got a good temperament and doesn't look awkward?
EDIT: I've already found an answer of sorts to that last question (simply put, YES as they are opportunist feeders they eat as much as they can)but would still be interested to hear your replies. |
| boomslang |
Posted - 04/12/2011 : 14:54:55
The hide with the water bowl on top,could be moved more over to the cool side.Then put the water bowl middle/left hand side,and ofc take it of the top of the hide.
Move the humidity probe down abit,and water bowl over.That should get the humidity down abit.
it's never going to be 100% right humidity wise,as its a fish tank.Unless you get more airflow going through it.theres nothing wrong with glass vivs,if there the right kinda glass vivs. |
| n/a |
Posted - 04/12/2011 : 14:22:23
LOL - I'd just let the snake move the hide about (or weight it with a branch as Bob says) but generally they like to have a makeover and you just put the viv back to rights when they've finished; it's all part of the service a snake expects from its chamberperson.
I like to keep temps 26 cool, 32 warm, but a degree either way isn't the end of the world.
Yeah, if the snake wets the aspen, take out every scrap, even the drier stuff round it and disinfect the area used as toilet. I use F10 solution. Shahi used to have a beautiful piece of hollow bamboo, he did a big mess and wet in that ...it's now out in the garden. It reeked, and no getting the stink out. |
| Lotabob |
Posted - 04/12/2011 : 14:01:24
I use 32oC in the hot spot and then 24oC as far away from the bulb as possible (or higher if its hotter or lower if its colder, its ambient so will move to suit its surroundings, they just have to deal with it) the thinking is from A to B will be the full range between the two temperatures.
Clean out any soiled substrate as soon as possible and then every 6 months I would do a full strip out and deep clean, I found that works fine and has not had any problems (not suitable for corns lol, they poop so much a full clean is needed monthly or it starts to stink), if its just water from the water bowl I would just throw it into the hot spot it soon dries.
Humidity wise I'm just doing my research on constructing a totally glass arboreal set up for my Gecko and a GTP and have been researching drilling holes into glass and there are special glass drill bits you can use, I have one and drilled a mirror the other day and it worked brilliantly so its an option if you are confident with a drill but the easiest thing will be to keep the water bowl low and the substrate dry.
I wouldn't worry about weighing down the hides, I use a large exo terra one for Duke and he still takes it for walks, it would need welding to the floor to keep it still but if you really want to add a bit of heft put a cleaned up branch in and lean it on the box, should give it a bit more chance of staying still and a great place to climb.
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| frambo |
Posted - 04/12/2011 : 13:44:27
Thanks bats, always a helpful answer lol.
The deal with the bowls is that they weigh down the boxes. Without the bowls the boxes get moved around etc and are never in the right place!
Any ideas for weighing down the boxes? By the way what is the correct temp for the cool end? From looking at the care sheet:
quote:
The ideal temperature for you snake's vivarium is a temperature gradient of 26-33°C
but further down the page it says
quote:
One end should be around 33°C and the other around 24°C.
So which is it?
Haha I know what you mean about messes in eggboxes. A few days ago she'd made such a puddle that her eggbox had got damp and started to collapse.
And on that note, seeing as I'm new to Aspen as opposed to kitchen towel, what do I do when she does a wet one? Do I just change any damp aspen or is it ok to leave it to dry out or something?
Sooo many questions! |
| n/a |
Posted - 04/12/2011 : 12:51:02
Hi, I can't comment on the glass tank humidity and venting, or temps and ambient, as I've never used one for snakes. I don't know whether it's the same as a rub that needs to be in a warm room.
Sorry if I've got this wrong, if the bowls on the hides are temporary, but I wouldn't put bowls on top of the hides as the snake will tip them off. I'd definitely put another hide in the cool end, especially as so many royals seem to favour that end. I like to provide 3 hides, or a hide either end and plenty of cover, for royals. I wouldn't spend any money on special hides for a young royal - the eggbox etc is adequate for now (although they don't look as good, I know) and kitchen roll inners/small food boxes free from sticky tape are good too; the snake soon grows and will of course make a mess in its hides - free disposable ones are ideal. (There again I'm a cheap git, lol.)
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