| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| dalesanders28 |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 09:32:04
Hi
i have been told that heat mats are not ideal for my royal python.
i only have a small viv 1.5ft x 1.5ft.
how can i get a heat light in there without making it too hot and what bulb is best too use? red or clear and wattage?
many thanks
Dale |
| 19 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Lotabob |
Posted - 21/02/2012 : 12:59:51
BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU ARE RUNNING A HEAT BULB WITHOUT A GUARD OR/AND THERMOSTAT!
Its a massive risk of burns, overheating and glass injury. |
| n/a |
Posted - 21/02/2012 : 00:53:02
Hi, good luck with the setup, you'll get there. Settling in depends on the snake - it's impossible to predict how long they'll take, but a couple of refused feeds at first are nothing to worry about, especially with a young royal.
I think it's good that he's showing interest in the prey - that's usually the first sign of starting to accept a feed in his new home. Could be a good idea to leave his rodent in with him overnight; leave it in the cold end so that it doesn't go rancid, and if it's still there in the morning, bin it and wait till his next feeding day.
But hope he takes it and gives you a nice surprise in the morning!
All the best. |
| brad37 |
Posted - 21/02/2012 : 00:41:40
hi burned its crazy that they have reptile shops and they have employes that don,t know anything about reptiles they sent me home with the wrong set up i had to go back this morning to get a spot light i told them it was not getting up to the wright heat. and they could n,t tell wot i needed. so i had to pick so i picked a spot light witch i new a bit about. they should have to learn about wot the are selling. my viv seems to be keeping to the right temp. have to get a thermost as soon as poss. how long does it take about for a snake to settle in its new home? was dew it feed today but still has,nt taken it yet been sniffing it and geting ready to strike but then goes back in its hide thanks brad |
| n/a |
Posted - 20/02/2012 : 15:23:38
Hi, Brad - yes, like you when I first started out, a thermostat was never mentioned by the shop - I only found out about them when I came on the forums. And until I did find out, I believed that the shop was the source of 'expert' advice ...so many of us have been there, done that - you live and you learn eh?
I reckon this is the cheapest place to buy new (can't get my head round ebay but yes, definitely an option) and Surrey Pet Supplies is definitely cheaper than most local shops. This stat is manufactured in the uk too.
Oops forgot to post link - http://www.surreypetsupplies.co.uk/microclimate-b1-dimmer-stat-600w.html
All the best. |
| brad37 |
Posted - 20/02/2012 : 14:40:14
thanks got my temp right now witch is good i got red spot this morning but didnt get a thermostat. where i got my set up they didnt have any thermostats crazy and its the only reptile shop in the town i will have to get one from some where mite be e bay see wot they got but i will not get any thing from the far east just keep my fingers crossed my temps stay under control till i get sorted thanks |
| Lotabob |
Posted - 19/02/2012 : 15:52:26
I dont drop the temps at night, the ambient temp will drop naturally as the house cools at night but the hot spot stays at 32oC.
Heat rocks dont feel hot until a snake curls its whole body round it and it overheats. They are OK for small lizards I suppose they stand on things and only contact a small section of the rock but snakes will coil round it.
Shops for some reason I honestly cant understand dont seem to say Stats are required. I cannot understand this. For example a good hot spot temperature for a Royal is 32oC, I ran my vivarium without a stat for 1 hour (without a snake in it) and the whole thing was heated up to 43oC and it was still rising, this is 8oC hotter than the maximum tolerance for a Royal, these sorts of temperatures long term will cause health issues and brain damage. Stats aren't overly expensive and do a vital job in keeping things safe, I dont get why shops dont push sales of these, maybe they want to keep things looking simple or cheaper but you wont find many people who have been keeping snakes a while who dont have their setups on a stat. |
| brad37 |
Posted - 19/02/2012 : 15:16:57
hi thanks mate the heat rock is not hot i keep checking it to see if it to hot have not got heat mat. i got my set up from a reptile shop and didnt say i needed a thermostat? i will get rid of the heat rock to be on the safe side. so wot temp should the viv be at night? wot should i use for heat then its only a baby iam scared of it dieing if i dont keep my viv warm. give me as much info as you can. i didnt just go out and buy a snake i have wanted one for a long time i have been reading up on the for a bit but all the reading did was about the spoted python. thanks |
| Lotabob |
Posted - 18/02/2012 : 23:48:15
YEAH ditch the heat rock, well known for burning snakes. Not a good way of regulating their heat, its not worth the risk.
You also need to turn off the heat mat too, REALLY not ideal but not using a thermostat is a much higher risk to the snake than been cold in the very small time it will take you to go to a reptile shop tomorrow and pick up a thermostat.
Royals do not need (or want) light at night. Also any bulbs in the vivarium need to be guarded, the last thing you want is to have to pick pieces of glass out of your snakes belly as the bulb has smashed while been climbed on. Or its hot and burns it.
Sorry Brad to be so negative on such a small post but you pick up on worrying information and it would be irresponsible of me to not tell you that your setup is not ideal and has a few danger points. With a few changes you can have a great setup which will last you forever. |
| jbarlow91 |
Posted - 18/02/2012 : 23:25:27
I'd be careful with the heat rock they are well known for over heating and burning animals. Specially when he is fully grown and heavy |
| brad37 |
Posted - 18/02/2012 : 23:15:40
wot should the temp be at night i havent got a thermostat yet ive got a heat rock and 13watt day and a 25whatt night light so wot shoud i keep on at night thanks |
| reptilemadd |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 20:13:22
In a viv that small a 40/50 watt IR bulb should be ok and the dimming stat will manage the temp for you it will just need the stat probe shifting about till you get the temps right. I put my probe as close to there hides as I can so the hot end stays at the right temp about 30 degrees in their hot hides.. |
| dalesanders28 |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 19:04:46
ok, i will get the heat mat inside the viv on a thermostat and try an acieve between 30-35c in hot end and once this is set up the cold end should manage itself along with the humidity?
cheers |
| jbarlow91 |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 12:50:52
Just which ever one can get it to the right temp when its connected to the stat when it comes. The 22w will probably get to the temp quicker and easier tho |
| dalesanders28 |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 10:51:28
ok thats great.
i am still waiting for a thermostat.
i have a 7w and a 22w heat mat. when i get my thermostat what is beat to use on bottom?
cheers |
| markmifsud |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 10:45:32
the heat mat is OK whilst your snake is young, but once he gets some weight behind him, there is a risk of him getting burned. |
| dalesanders28 |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 10:38:06
ok thats great so if you was me would you ditch the the heat mat and get a IR bulb?
cheers |
| markmifsud |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 10:30:56
I have mine on a timer, but that is so I can drop the temps over night, at no time should you really have the heating off, it should always be on, via a control mechanism, ie a stat.
I guess as long as you have some lower ventilation slots at the cooler end then there will still be a heat gradient, not a big one but still enough to give your snake a choice. I do think in your case a IR bulb could be more appropriate as its more of a spot heater than a ceramic is. This will give you a hot spot directly under the bulb (controlled to 90/91f) with the temps reducing slightly as you reach the extreme of your viv. |
| dalesanders28 |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 10:20:17
thankyou for your response.
i have bulbs for my bearded dragons and they use a 75w bulb.
i understand i need to provide a hot area and a cold area but the viv is only small and worried that the whole viv will be too hot if i put a infared bulb over the top?
also is it required to have dimming stat for and infared bulb or can i supply heat for 12 hours then have it on a timer so it turn off at night.
cheers |
| markmifsud |
Posted - 15/02/2012 : 10:13:17
never use a clear light as a heat source, it will distress your pet as they prefer the dark. ideally you should look at a low wattage (maybe 100w) ceramic or IR lamp, ensure you encase the heat bulb within a guard to stop your snake getting burnt, a pulse (ceramic) ir dimming (IR) stat to control the heat. The Dimming stat can be used for both ceramic and IR bulbs. |
