| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| n/a |
Posted - 05/03/2012 : 17:20:59
I'll explain my setup first so you can give better advice.
The viv is a vivexotic vx 48 and I have 100 watt ceramic lamp as my main heat source controlled by a pulse stat which is on constant and 100 watt red lamp controlled by a dimmer stat for night time which switches on at 8.00 pm and goes off at 8.00 am.
The day time lighting is provided by a flouresent uv tube which switches on at 8.00 am and goes off at 8.00 pm.
My questions are:
1) Is it ok to put the pulse stat on a 12hr timer cycle so it switches off at night so I can create a night time drop by using the red bulb as the main night time heat source.
2) If this ok to do this, when would be the best time to switch on and off.
I was thinking switching off 30 mins before the red light comes on and switching on 30 mins before the red light goes out.
3) Also is the ceramic heat lamp the right size for the viv would you recommend a higher wattage.
thanks
Nick |
| 7 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Se7enS1ns |
Posted - 06/03/2012 : 09:37:49
That's maninly because they are nocturnal, but also as mentioned above, they really seem to dislike the UV strip lights! |
| n/a |
Posted - 05/03/2012 : 23:05:16
Thanks for the help so far.
Slight bit of confusion with what I was trying to put across, the red bulb is only used for night viewing hence why its on a timer as ive got it set up for when the snake is most active my intentions are to use it at the heat source for the night instead of ceramic if I run the 2 together the brightness of the bulb is effected.
I thought by putting the ceramic on timer the brightness of the red bulb will be inceased plus I can drop the temperture by couple of degrees at the same time with out effecting the brightness.
Since putting the red bulb in we see a lot more of snakey lights go out at 8 red on at 8 snakeys out about by 8.30 wheres as before she would hide away in her hide.
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| richard v |
Posted - 05/03/2012 : 22:54:55
Hello,
I have the same size viv with a 150 watt infra red
bulb heats everthing up perfectly. That's what I would recommend
Or the ceramic equivalent but definitely not both. The night time drop will
happen anyway. |
| markmifsud |
Posted - 05/03/2012 : 21:55:03
I have a 250w ceramic in my 4 foot, controlled by a dual time zone dimmer stat so I have a cooler night temp than day temps. I did have a 150w ceramic but found it struggled to maintain a regular temp and was on full blast almost 24/7 just trying to keep 91f. now with the 250w its on dimming power all the time so I know I should be fine on the very cold nights. Well actually it did very well during the snowy evenings last month |
| Se7enS1ns |
Posted - 05/03/2012 : 21:45:11
Regarding the UV light: I also have one in my vivarium, as it came with the "kit" - however I have stopped using it all together now. Royal Pythons get their calcium directly from the bones of the prey, NOT from converting vitamin D3 from UV light. Whilst there is a degree of debate regarding small amounts of UV light actually being beneficial to the snakes health, I can say for a fact mine does not like the intensity of the white light at all, and completely shys from it! As a light source, I have a basking lamp for daylight hours only, and a heat mat to keep the night time temp up (although not recommended by many).
As above, you seem to have too many heat sources - but I'm sure you'll figure it all out.
Hope this helps :) |
| Lotabob |
Posted - 05/03/2012 : 20:29:09
Why have you 2 heat sources that do exactly the same job running? Ceramic bulbs can be run 24/7 and so can the IR bulb so both is a total waste of your time and money. The daytime light is also not required, they don't need it, its light during the day they can see this so will go somewhere dark AKA their hides. Duke does this all on his own, he doesn't need a light to tell him its daylight the sun does that. Your also using a light emitting heat source at night and a non light emitting bulb during the day, it just doesn't make sense doing it that way round.
Having your bulbs on for 12 off for 12 will shorten their life, cooling and heating them causes them to fail quicker than if they were on constant.
Sorry to be a bit negative but you've got the equipment of 2 vivariums in one vivarium plus 3 timers, its overkill, more to go wrong and too complex, you just need 1 heat source and a stat, thats it. |
| n/a |
Posted - 05/03/2012 : 17:36:15
Ah, well, I'm a lazy git, and if it was me I'd just use either ceramic or IR by itself, 24/7. In a normal room, especially if the house heating goes off at night, you don't need to engineer a night time drop; the ambient temp in the room influences that of the cool end of the viv, but even if not, the snake will thermoregulate and go where the temp is right.
But, as I say, I'm a lazy git and not very technical lol.
You might need a 150w ceramic in a 4' viv. From what I gather, for some reason a higher wattage of ceramic is needed as opposed to IR in the same size viv, although of course since the stat controls it, no harm to have a higher wattage than you actually need. |
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