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weeclaire1984 Posted - 16/07/2011 : 15:59:09
Appologise in advance for this long post

I have had my male python for a little over a year now he is approx 4 yrs old currently weighs 796g
Since I got him over a year ago he has only ever been force fed 2 rat pups he is not the slightest bit interested in food

Understandably he refused to eat recently as he had suffered from scale rot which has now cleared

He was offered a brained gerbil a wk ago got it half way down and regurged it so have tried the same 2 more times and not even showing an interest

I have another python plus 4 corns 1 boa and a hognose and they all eat every time not often they refuse a feed unless in shed

My temps are all ok even tried making it a couple of degrees warmer at the hot end of the viv even moved him into a rub and still no luck

I am getting a fresh killed mouse or rat during the wk from someone I knw that breeds mice Nd rats for food bt if this doesnt work I don't knw what else will

Even heated food up tried strike feeding drop feeding nothing seems to work

If anyone else can give me some advice I would b grateful as I am running out of ideas :(

Thanks
19   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
weeclaire1984 Posted - 18/07/2011 : 00:41:33
quote:
Originally posted by Lotabob

Its that age old saying (used all the time on snake forums) that they are all different, you just got polar opposites. I'm currently st in a dark room with my screen brightness turned way down awaiting my shy guy comingout and taking his rat. I'm lucky that he does eat but he is easily put off.



Yep my 2 pythons are like chalk Nd cheese lol
My female will eat day or night never shys from a meal the other wk she took her rat was hangin out the viv and didn't even bother when I closed the door over jst carried on she's a little star Nd my male is my only problem snake out of all 8 of them lol Bt will get there :))
Lotabob Posted - 18/07/2011 : 00:33:33
Its that age old saying (used all the time on snake forums) that they are all different, you just got polar opposites. I'm currently st in a dark room with my screen brightness turned way down awaiting my shy guy comingout and taking his rat. I'm lucky that he does eat but he is easily put off.
weeclaire1984 Posted - 17/07/2011 : 22:37:23
quote:
Originally posted by Lotabob

I think to remove any favouritism between hides they should be the same. And as cramped as you can get is better, they are weird like that, they like to be crammed in.



Thanks :) we are going to get him set up in a 18L rub this wk with smaller hides and up the temps and try to leave him alone for 10 days and attempt another feed
I was used to my other royal she is happy in a 3 ft viv with 2 hides a water bowl in the middle and touch wood has only ever missed 2 feeds in the year Nd a half I've had her bt they are all different lol
Lotabob Posted - 17/07/2011 : 19:47:05
I think to remove any favouritism between hides they should be the same. And as cramped as you can get is better, they are weird like that, they like to be crammed in.
weeclaire1984 Posted - 17/07/2011 : 18:41:33
Matching wasn't for asthetics, its purely so that there is no difference between the two hides and the snake can then choose thermoregulation over safety/comfort as it should feel secure/comfortable in both. But you are right anything of appropriate size can be used, and I agree that flat is better, Duke's hide has him squished in flat and he loves it.
[/quote]

Hey I do think that the matching hides is a gd idea so there is no difference in size appearance etc so he can regulate his temps comfortably
I do think I need to get him some sort of hide to make him feel more cramped I believe it will make him feel safer :))
weeclaire1984 Posted - 17/07/2011 : 18:39:20
quote:
Originally posted by hodgie

Dont worry so much about matching hides, what is visually pleasing to you will have absolutely no relevence to a Royal. At his size you`ll find no better hide than using a cereal box`s with a small hole cut in the ends. They like hides where they feel completely cramped so something with a high roof is a waist of time.



Hey thanks for the tip ;) I'm happy to try anything to get him more comfortable and more importantly eating on a regular basis like my other royal :)
Lotabob Posted - 17/07/2011 : 14:31:46
quote:
Originally posted by hodgie

Dont worry so much about matching hides, what is visually pleasing to you will have absolutely no relevence to a Royal. At his size you`ll find no better hide than using a cereal box`s with a small hole cut in the ends. They like hides where they feel completely cramped so something with a high roof is a waist of time.



Matching wasn't for asthetics, its purely so that there is no difference between the two hides and the snake can then choose thermoregulation over safety/comfort as it should feel secure/comfortable in both. But you are right anything of appropriate size can be used, and I agree that flat is better, Duke's hide has him squished in flat and he loves it.
hodgie Posted - 17/07/2011 : 13:29:01
Dont worry so much about matching hides, what is visually pleasing to you will have absolutely no relevence to a Royal. At his size you`ll find no better hide than using a cereal box`s with a small hole cut in the ends. They like hides where they feel completely cramped so something with a high roof is a waist of time.
weeclaire1984 Posted - 17/07/2011 : 02:18:44
Thanks I'll keep u posted ;)
Will get pics of all my pets when I get home using my mobile at the moment lol
Lotabob Posted - 17/07/2011 : 00:26:35
Good luck, keep us posted on any happenings. Your next job is an important one its posting pics of your gang.
weeclaire1984 Posted - 16/07/2011 : 23:16:24
I hope so too more for the sake of the python :) coz that happened to him its set him back further i think with his feeding
I think i have been unlucky nd got a fussy royal as my 1 year old royal does nothin but eat i think she makes up for him lol

Im definately going to get a smaller rub to try him in and 2 matching hides with a tunnel between the 2 and get the temps raised too
yea im always questioning whay ive done wrong with my python coz the place i got him from said he was kept in a 3 ft viv and fed every time and was drop fed

yea i knw still lots of options there nd a new option to try now thanks :)

its someone thats going to put the fresh kill in straight away to try him failing that leaving him alone in a smaller rub for at least 10 days nd try a gerbil again as its the only thing he has shown interest in

yea i knw the vets are shocked its as little weight loss in all that time
Lotabob Posted - 16/07/2011 : 22:10:19
I hope you can for your sake as well as the snakes I'm sure that your nerves are shot to pieces. I would downgrade him to a smaller RUB whether it works or not I think you have one of those fussy Royals so anything you can do to start winning the battle is going to be better for you. It does sound like you've done nothing wrong some snakes are just going to be a bind and have you scratching your head for what to do next. When I first got Duke I'd been told how they fed him and it didn't work so i straight away start to question what I've done wrong, then someone on here came along and said to try something else and it worked and has worked every meal for 6 months in that time he's gained 400 Grams so dont give up hope he must have been easting before so he is capable of it so its just finding out how he likes to eat. Unless fresh kill is still twitching and hot when you serve it its not really much difference from frozen thawed.

You have plenty of options still available, mice, rats, chicks, gerbils, fresh kill, live so you've plenty to go on but I think an dhope a smaller RUB, hotter hot end and two tight fitting hides will fix the issue and you'll soon have an easy life with it.

Its amazing its barely eaten in a year and only lost 100g, thats mad.
weeclaire1984 Posted - 16/07/2011 : 21:18:17
Tawfik47 : I keep the humidity around 60%,

Lotabob : thanks for the advice I'll order a 18l rub ( I was given the 50L one from someone who said to try that)
I'll get his temps up to 90 - 95 too see if that helps
I have a large hide for him like the idea of getting a matching one and putting foliage in between

I have tried the whole no fuss approach a few times jst leaving food in with him doesn't seem to work

I keep him in my bedroom which I'm only really in there in the morning and when I go to bed so he's in a quiet place I have tried covering him up a few times too

I didn't handle him much bt as he recently suffered scale rot I was having to handle him every day and I've been checking him every couple of days still paranoid even though it's completely clear thas why I haven't put substrate back in with him

When he was assist fed it was an experienced reptile keeper that done it for me he had him for a few wks trying to get him to feed
I knw abt reptoboost he got that for sometime too to try Nd boost him

He's only lost approx jst over 100 g in the time we have had him

I do think I'll try the 18L rub if the fresh kill mouse doesnt work and then jst leave him alone for 10 days only going in to give fresh water and try not to handle him unless I have to

Thank you for the advice :) fingers crossed I can get him eating
Lotabob Posted - 16/07/2011 : 19:59:29
50 Litres is quite big, I'd be tempted to go much much smaller an 18 Litre maybe its a tight squeeze to get everything in but they seem to like that, and push the temps up to between 90-95oF (if the conversion is correct lol 32-35oC).

What size is the hide too they like em tight. My Duke is too big for a medium but doesnt quite fill a large so I have a lot of substrate in there to fill some of the gap. Hide positioning is a tough one if you only have one. I'd be tempted to have two identical hides, one cold side, one hot side with the foliage making a tunnel type setup between the two, again referring to Duke he spends all his time in the cooler side but he does go over to the warm side to warm up then sneaks back.

Covering over. As the sun sets cover over the RUB with something thick enough to block out light but thin enough to not effect airflow (I use a towel) when its dark its their time as you go to bed you can take the cover off so that they keep the day/night cycle.

Feeding Technique wise, the no fuss approach is probably best. Get your ratty out for defrost about midday, leave it near the RUB to defrost. At 11pm the rat will be good and defrosted and also good a smelly, just sneak it into the rub about 3 inches away from the entrance of the hide your snake is in, (I would say cover the substrate but when I do that my fussy lad refuses it so your choice) and thats it, go to bed and sleep with your fingers crossed.

Until you have it feeding on a semi regular basis I'd not do any handling other than the essential stuff and once moved into the small RUB give it a week to 10 days to destress and settle in.

Other stuff is place the RUB in the quietest room in the house, and assist feeding is MASSIVELy stressful for the snake and you and unless its losing weight I wouldn't do it. OOH almost forgot reptoboost in the water bowl could kick start the gut into feeling hungry, even a fasting snake will drink so worth a try as well.

Tawfik47 Posted - 16/07/2011 : 19:58:42
What about the humidity ? 60%-70% ?
Tawfik47 Posted - 16/07/2011 : 19:57:08
I'm not an expert, but from what i read, the temp should be 90 in the hot side and 78 in the cool side.
could this be the prob.
weeclaire1984 Posted - 16/07/2011 : 18:41:14
Oh has a cave hide on hot side & leaves + branches at the cool side

Water bowl in centre

Only kept on paper towels for substrate
weeclaire1984 Posted - 16/07/2011 : 18:39:38
Its a 50L rub, temps are in the high 80's
Lotabob Posted - 16/07/2011 : 16:35:51
What size RUB? Temps? Hides?

Dont lose hope there are still pleanty of things to try.

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