| Author |
 Topic  |
|
blackflame
Snake Mite
Netherlands
5 Posts |
 Posted - 27/01/2010 : 16:10:59
|
Lucy, my 3yr old Royal Python lives in a terrarium heated by one light bulb (runs 9am - 9pm) a ceramic heater (runs 24hrs a day in cold weather, nights only in milder weather. The Ceramic heater is protected by a guard.
I also leave a heating mat under a layer of foam insulation below the glass exterior of the terrarium that underlies half of her hide. so she can sit on the warm side, or the cooler side. I guess the heat gets trapped in the hide to keep it nice and snug.
Temps can drop below 20C in the terrarium on freezing nights (House temperature below 10C), but the warmth mat is always on, and if she stays on that she seems fine.
I was more worried about her being too cold (she had RI once) but now I have read the pieces here about prolonged exposure to heat mats and am concerned as she sits on the warm side all the time.
I am also concerned that the guard over the ceramic bulb also gets really warm (I can't touch it) which seems to me to be totally pointless. She is getting long enough to reach it if she wants.
Anone have any ideas or comments? |
|
|
Lukee
Hatchling
United Kingdom
83 Posts |
Posted - 27/01/2010 : 16:24:51
|
Well not sure about your royal but mines a little baby, basically just got him a few days ago and he has a exo terra medium hide in the hot end and is about 92-94 all the time with a pp stat, although on the cold side its 66 on a cold day however he is always in his plant pot hide in the cool end not sure whether or not hes in the cool end at night or not but bit worried about Ri just like you so do you suggest I get another plant pot instead of the exo terra hide, or shall I switch the plant pot to the hot end and the exo terra to the cold side or leave it as it is and see what happens?
Thanks. |
 |
|
|
dazb
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
2847 Posts |
Posted - 27/01/2010 : 16:40:36
|
Hi and welcome...
You seem to say you have 3 types of heat source there but no mention of any stats, do you have any?
You need to be maintaining a temp of about 90*F (32*C) in your warm end and a cool end of about 24*C.
Being kept at a low temp can cause a RI.
If the guards is too hot for you too touch then it is too hot for the snake.
Can you post a picture of your set up as it will help loads.
|
 
|
|
|
|
blackflame
Snake Mite
Netherlands
5 Posts |
Posted - 27/01/2010 : 16:58:34
|
The temp at cool end varies from 15-26 and warm end 18-31
It only goes up to high 20's if I am home, and have the gas fire on. I can't get it any higher right now as it is freezing outside and I can't keep the house warm enough. I guess the mat is her lifesaver right now. She had RI last year, and is showing no signs of those symptoms in any way.
I don't know what the ground temp on the mat area is. It feels moderately warm, but nothing that should damage her. It is insulated by a 3mm insulation foam and the glass and astroturf. In any case she has no evidence of any burn marks, eats regularly (although recently only if i shut her in an empty cereal box with the pre-killed mouse for a while) and seems active and healthy. She is warm to the touch if she lies on the mat for a long period. Is this OK?
She seems regular in her habits - comes out and explores around lights out, and I can hear her as I fall asleep.
|
|
|
|
Blackecho
Royal Python Admin
United Kingdom
11327 Posts |
Posted - 27/01/2010 : 17:59:38
|
The ceramic bulb should be fine to heat it 24/7 if on a thermostat and the temperatures are being measured with a digital thermometer.
There should be no need for another bulb and a heatmat. |
 
 |
|
|
|
dazb
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
2847 Posts |
Posted - 27/01/2010 : 19:02:13
|
| As above, you just need a stat to go on your ceramic and it will look after itself maintaining a constant steady temp. |
|
|
|
|
Gingerpony
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
2663 Posts |
Posted - 27/01/2010 : 21:00:26
|
quote:
Originally posted by blackflame
...a terrarium heated by one light bulb (runs 9am - 9pm) a ceramic heater (runs 24hrs a day in cold weather, nights only in milder weather. The Ceramic heater is protected by a guard.
is the light bulb guarded too?
keep the light fitting for just that - lighting - and try switching to an energy saver so it will produce minimal heat and not affect the working of the ceramic. ANY heat source should be controlled by a thermostat, a pulse or dimmer being the best options for your set up.
i'd also ditch the mat, or run it at about 20*C or so at the cool end just over winter when the ambient temperature is lower. again controlled by a stat but a basic on/off type will be fine for running a heatmat.
how and where are you measuring the temps in the viv? |
Dumerils boas, BCO hybrids, Sinder Hypo boas, cornsnakes, ratsnakes, Day Geckos
|
|
|
|
blackflame
Snake Mite
Netherlands
5 Posts |
Posted - 27/01/2010 : 21:23:20
|
The lightbulb is not guarded unfortunately. it has not been possible to fit one as the only type i can buy have to fit into the bulb fitting, which will not open. 2 engineering graduates have looked at it and cannot make sense of it. I have never ever known her come out in "her" daytime though.
I cannot stress enough how cold my flat is. i have no central heating - only a gas fire which i can only operate when i am home. The air temp in the house can drop down to 6-8 degrees at night. It is an old amsterdam top floor apartment, drafty and ramshackle.
I have a digital stick on thermometer at ground level at each end of the vivarium. If the light and heater (and mat) are all ON, but the house is cold they read around 21 and 25. If just the heater and mat are on they read 18 and 22. If heater and light are both off, and house is cold they can go down to 16 and 18 or even lower. That is why i leave the mat on most of the time so if the air temp gets too cold she can sit on the heat source in her snug hide. I even wondered about lining her hide with silver foil, but she seems well.
So at the moment I am worried that she sits "cooking" on the warm area (from the mat) but that the rest of her vivarium is at times far too cold.
The snake seems totally fine though. Active, looks healthy, eats regularly, growing normally and no burns.
|
|
|
|
reptilekeeper1992
Yearling
United Kingdom
331 Posts |
Posted - 27/01/2010 : 22:21:25
|
my attic room has bare brick walls and no radiator and the temperature at the best of times reads 16-17C and i too can have trouble with the heating.
I have got a convectional heater in my room a simple plug in mains socket one, and when it is cold, i turn it on in the morning and when i come back from college in the evening it is nice and toasty, and the snake tanks are fine.
Can you get hold of a small heating to go in the room where your royal is and if so shut all the doors to let the air circulate. After a bit you will get into a routine of having the heater and the royal's viv should warm up.
Then you can choose out your 3 heating methods which one to use:
1. heatmat, thermostat, digital thermometer
2. ceramic, thermostat, guard, digital thermostat
3. light bulb (red heat bulb, or infra red bulb), thermostat, guard, digital thermostat. |
|
|
|
dazb
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
2847 Posts |
Posted - 28/01/2010 : 16:45:09
|
The best advice i can offer due to your circumstances regarding the ambient room temperature is to buy a wooden viv and a pulse proportional thermostat to use with your ceramic.
The wooden vivs would hold the heat far better than a glass one so the ambient room temp wouldnt be as much as a problem and if you hook your ceramic up to the PP stat it can run 24/7 and maintantain a nice warm end.
|
|
|
|
|
Lukee
Hatchling
United Kingdom
83 Posts |
Posted - 28/01/2010 : 16:50:10
|
| got my ball python last saturday just a baby and hes always in the cold hide, ive taken the plant pot out and put in Identical hides see if it works, the cool end is room temp about 70 and my hot side never reaches more than 90-93 with a pp stat on a heat mat, so mines basically the same option, because also when you feel them they are kind of hot when they have been on the hot side hes always cold bit worried he might contract ri what you lot think? |
|
|
|
Lukee
Hatchling
United Kingdom
83 Posts |
Posted - 28/01/2010 : 17:28:38
|
| np everyone changed the hides and just found him exploring and he went into his warm hide, onlyt thing is it a problem if the humidity gets to 75-80% is that likely to cause R.I or? |
|
|
|
Blackecho
Royal Python Admin
United Kingdom
11327 Posts |
Posted - 28/01/2010 : 18:34:18
|
That's a bit high on the humidity yes, how are you measuring it and where?
Have you a photo of the setup? |
|
|
|
|
Lukee
Hatchling
United Kingdom
83 Posts |
Posted - 28/01/2010 : 20:16:55
|
hi Blackecho im measuring it with a digital thermostat, in the middle is the probe where the water bowl is?
Also Blackecho is it very essential to keep my ball python in there for a full week as he seems very happy and from what I can see enjoys coming out and having a nose round, can I handle him or what do you think? |
|
|
|
Gingerpony
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
2663 Posts |
Posted - 28/01/2010 : 20:52:09
|
i'd wait a week regardless of how he's reacting to the change, it will help in the long run
and your probe being in the middle of the viv is neither use nor ornament!
and to the OP - not sure why you can't get a guard for the light bulb (if you're keeping it).........just a standard guard should do the job like the ones pictured in this link http://www.theroyalpython.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=656
try reptiles-ink on here for one.......
|
Dumerils boas, BCO hybrids, Sinder Hypo boas, cornsnakes, ratsnakes, Day Geckos
|
|
|
|
Blackecho
Royal Python Admin
United Kingdom
11327 Posts |
Posted - 28/01/2010 : 21:25:13
|
Lukee, I'd probably have the hygrometer probe near a hide where the snake will be spending most of its time.
I'd like to see a photo to look at the ventilation. |
|
|
|
|
Lukee
Hatchling
United Kingdom
83 Posts |
Posted - 28/01/2010 : 22:27:01
|
Them holes all across the side and the same across the sides
GP that scares me when you say it will help for the long run, you mean if I dont hes likely to be a devil?:)lol.
Hes a bad feeder he just about ate two mice in the shop before he came to me so... not surprised if he dont eat this week if he does I will be so happy.
|
|
|
|
Lukee
Hatchling
United Kingdom
83 Posts |
Posted - 28/01/2010 : 22:44:32
|
He absolutly loves to explore as soon as I tur the light of shut the door come back in a second hes out and about exploring and not agressive in any way best snake ever!:)
I mixed between either George or Elmo as a name :)
|
|
|
|
chris100575
Sub Adult
United Kingdom
743 Posts |
Posted - 29/01/2010 : 08:38:19
|
| I agree with GP, I'd not handle him until he's had a week to settle in. If you handle him too early he could get stressed and a stressed royal won't eat. |
0.1.0 Royal Python - Princess
0.1.0 BCI - Feather |
|
|
|
blackflame
Snake Mite
Netherlands
5 Posts |
Posted - 29/01/2010 : 10:37:01
|
I have now changed setup in the viv.
She has one hide on the heat mat, with a 25w light bulb above her (on in daytime, gives out little warmth)Surface Temp in the hide is 32.5C
Her other hide is NOT on a heat mat, but under a fully guarded 60w ceramic bulb that is on 24/7 (although I am experimenting with using timer to have it go off for a 2hrs every 4 hrs)
Temp on the cool side is 22-25C
I hope this is OK.
She seemed to spend most of the evening and night exploring her new setup and hanging in her "tree" and this morning was fast asleep in the "warm" hide on the mat.
|
|
|
|
Gingerpony
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
2663 Posts |
Posted - 29/01/2010 : 11:38:59
|
quote:
Originally posted by Lukee
GP that scares me when you say it will help for the long run, you mean if I dont hes likely to be a devil?:)lol.
Hes a bad feeder he just about ate two mice in the shop before he came to me so... not surprised if he dont eat this week if he does I will be so happy.
the feeding issue, particularly if he's a known poor feeder, is EXACTLY the reason he needs at least a week to settle in, if not 2! |
Dumerils boas, BCO hybrids, Sinder Hypo boas, cornsnakes, ratsnakes, Day Geckos
|
|
|
|
Topic |
|
Heating safety concerns
