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acd1984
Sub Adult
United Kingdom
687 Posts |
Posted - 07/07/2011 : 01:36:21
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im going with an ir bulb for my viv, what wattage would you recommend to get the right temps?
viv size = (36 W) x (21 H) x (18.5 D) inches
I will also be using a energy saver for daytime viewing (equal to 20/40 watts) |
1.0.0 Lesser - Helios 2.0.0 Normal - George & Kairo 1.0.0 Mojave - Bolt 0.1.0 Mojave - Roxi 1.0.0 Leopard Gecko - Leo 0.0.1 Crocodile gecko - Pheonix
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n/a
deleted
7384 Posts |
Posted - 07/07/2011 : 10:07:11
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Hi, I usually use 100w; 75w is ok too, but the 100w provides reserve heat when it's needed and the stat maintains the right temp. They last for ages, even on 24/7 - one bulb that was fitted last Nov went a while back; another fitted before then is still going strong.
I don't think you'll need the low energy bulb - normal daylight plus the IR will give enough light imo, and you'll also need another guard for the low-energy even if it doesn't get hot - snakes have been known to climb on bulbs and crush or dislodge them. I'd just stick with the IR and save yourself some dosh. |
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Edited by - n/a on 07/07/2011 10:09:25 |
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acd1984
Sub Adult
United Kingdom
687 Posts |
Posted - 07/07/2011 : 19:04:01
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Thanks BATS, Apparently enrgy savers contain some crappy chemiacls like mercury or something so i dont think il be using 1.
Do you know roughly how efficient IR bulbs are? did you need extra/less ventilation to keep the temps right on both sides? |
1.0.0 Lesser - Helios 2.0.0 Normal - George & Kairo 1.0.0 Mojave - Bolt 0.1.0 Mojave - Roxi 1.0.0 Leopard Gecko - Leo 0.0.1 Crocodile gecko - Pheonix
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n/a
deleted
7384 Posts |
Posted - 07/07/2011 : 19:16:01
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No, I'm not an expert on this, but have never had any problems with IR and the conventional ventilation. In winter my house is on the cool side, but not damp or draughty. I don't use hydrometers, just the water bowl in the warm end once the snake has cleared from blue, except in Shahi's case (he was a poor shedder and has his water in the warm end permanently; it works for him.) All other snakes (corns and royals and Ziska) have been fine. |
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Edited by - n/a on 07/07/2011 19:34:49 |
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chay
Snake Mite
United Kingdom
40 Posts |
Posted - 07/07/2011 : 20:08:50
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Agree with bats in all areas |
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acd1984
Sub Adult
United Kingdom
687 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2011 : 05:21:55
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Thanks bats, as im using a faun at the minute which is useless when it comes to humidity, i put a second water bowl in when hes blue (which is right now) to help increse the humidity.
dont know if you recall, but his last shed a couple of weeks ago wasnt the best, il see if the extra water bowl helps this time round.
i might need to do the same when i transfer him to his viv as i find that orchid bark dries out rather fast |
1.0.0 Lesser - Helios 2.0.0 Normal - George & Kairo 1.0.0 Mojave - Bolt 0.1.0 Mojave - Roxi 1.0.0 Leopard Gecko - Leo 0.0.1 Crocodile gecko - Pheonix
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Royalbob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
1115 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2011 : 11:33:43
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swop the faun for a rub. Then as BATS said in her first post. |
1.0 Enchi butter 1.0 Enchi X Pastel 1.0 Fire het clown 1.0 Bumblebee 1.0 pinstripe
0.1 Enchi Fire 0.1 Pastel calico 0.1 Yellow belly Pinstripe 0.1 Lemon pastel poss het clown 0.1 Het clown 0.1 Yellow belly 0.1 Green Mojave 0.1 HC Albino 0.2 Normals
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n/a
deleted
7384 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2011 : 11:43:49
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Do you mean put the rub in the viv, Bob? Yes, that works well for a smaller snake - I have a little corn who's been kept like that and is now transferring to her viv - the rub lid is left off and she climbs in and out at will. Humidity's better in rubs as well.
If George is going straight into his viv, Bigdon, I think you'll still find humidity will be a lot better and the shedding problems should clear up. It's true that the IR dries the air out - BUT a water bowl in the hot end means that the IR evaporates the water and ups the humidity. Also (and this is just a pet theory of mine) I feel that some hatchlings/young snakes tend to be messy shedders and then improve as they mature. Good luck with his next shed. |
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