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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
 Posted - 26/02/2012 : 20:32:17
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Firstly, hello  After a LOT of lurking and knowledge-absorbing, I figured I'd take the plunge, say hello, and ask a couple of questions to set my mind at rest, if nothing else.
First things first - Here is my rather originally names Royal Python, Monty (I know, I know, I'm a terrible person, I'm sorry);
I actually don't know too much about Monty as she was an xmas pressie to myself bought from a local petshop where, as friendly and helpful as the staff are there, they don't seem to know too much about the history of the animals they sell. Such is life. So, we *think* she's about a year old or so judging by her size (a little under 3'), I don't know how much she weighs as I don't own any kitchen scales (I know I know, I'm a terrible person), and we don't even know if she is indeed a she!!
Here is Monty's house...
She was bought as a "starter package" for the sum of £180, which included:
*The terrarium - 36"x15"x15" glass slidey door type.
*A 12" heat mat
*A waterbowl, plus 2 bags of beech chippings.
*An Exo Terra "ReptiGlo 5.0" Ulta Violet bulb (25W), plus light fittings and switch box...
...and that's pretty much it, apart from Monty her self 
Obviously I knew that the terrarium would be a little bare with just a waterbowl to keep Monty company, so I also bought a tree bark hide and a large tree root. I've been doing a huge amount of reading on this forum as I'm a bit worried I'm going to do it all wrong and kill Monty off with sheer inexperience, especially regarding heating conditions and stress, so more recent additions are;
*A large Exo Terra snake cave at the cold end, with some very slightly damp / clammy moss in there (will moisten more come next shed).
*A large flat hide at the hot end over the heat map / under the lamp.
*A few loose rocks to aid her next shed
*A couple of fake plants
*2 analogue thermometer guages, one hot, one cold, plus one Hygrometer
*A porcelain angled bulb holder, fitted with an Exo Terra 50W "daylight basking" bulb.
Plus the beech chippings have been binned in favour of orchid bark chippings.
Now, the last couple of months haven't been without their issues - I had a slight concern (read panic) when I put the orchid bark in, as the humidity shot up to 95%, however this settled at 55% after a couple of days of decent ventilation. Monty has been an excellent feeder since I brought her home - she feeds every 7 - 10 days (I try to randomise it a bit) and is now on adult mice. This has set my mind to rest massively, as I've come to understand (from reading this forum a few hundred times)that if they are eating regularly then they are relatively content in their surroundings and general conditions, so that's been a comfort. We keep her terrarium in the dining room so she can be left alone / away from noise etc, but also handle her for about 15 mins daily so she gets used to being handled and gets her exercise. She shed for the first time (with me) a couple of weeks ago without TOO much trouble - it didn't all come off in one go, more large strips over the course of a few days. She did retain her tail end, and didn't seem to like me touching it, but I gave her a soak in the bath the other night and she allowed me to rub it off with the towel - am hoping the next shed goes a little better.
My new panic is regarding her temperature and general acivity: The thermometers are not great (will buy better / digital ones soon) and are placed in the coldest place of the terrarium - right next to the glass, so I don't know how much trust I can put in these, but until today, they were showing the ambient temp as 20oC at the cold end, and 22oC at the hot end. Monty also seemed to favour the cold end, as this had the hide she prefers at the cold end (the large flat one), and was spending the vast majority of her time in there. On top of that, she hasn't been very active for the last couple of weeks, nor has she done a poo for 3 weeks (she won't thank me for sharing that with you!). After a bit more reading on here, I've learnt that her "constipation" (my fretting) could be caused by the low temperature...so I went back to the pet shop today...and spent even more money
So, after a shuffle around of her furniture, she now has a 50W heat lamp over her favourite hide, plus the heat mat underneath it, bringing the ambient temp at that end up to 33oC, a large tree bark in the middle, and the moss cave at the cold end, which is reading around 23oC (forgot to check what it peaked at, and now the heat lamp is off for the night). I'm hoping that the increase in temp with get her, erm, "flowing" again, however I've come to learn that 3 weeks isn't not a long time for snakes to go...or, not go, as it were...
So; Penny for your thoughts? Can anyone see any problems here? Am I doing anything disastrously wrong? |
www.royal-balls.blogspot.com
www.facebook.com/dandavisreptiles |
Edited by - Se7enS1ns on 26/02/2012 20:58:03 |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
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n/a
deleted
7384 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2012 : 20:42:43
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Hi and welcome!
You might like to read this as it discusses every aspect of the royal python setup -
http://www.theroyalpython.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5183
Like you, when starting to keep snakes, I first purchased 'starter' setups from a shop but I'm sorry to say that they aren't terribly good - and it's infuriating because you expect shops to know what's best for your snake.
And, yes, royal pythons tend to save up their erm ...offerings for weeks. No need to worry! When the time is right (usually at shedding time but not always) you'll find a huge log, small white round things which are solid wee, and a biiig puddle, and Monty looking very pleased with herself. In fact she'll probably be cruising round to tell you about it lol.
All the best with her!
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hayes
Yearling
United Kingdom
115 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2012 : 20:45:08
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hi,
i don't know a lot myself but when using a vivarium, i know that you shouldn't use a heat mat or daylight bulb but instead use a ceramic or IR bulb with a guard so that the snake doesn't burn itself. investing in some digital thermometers will be advisable as analogue ones a complete rubbish. i don't think you need the moss in all the time (only wen in shed). if you are having humidity issues then use aspen instead as i think beech chippings gets quite humid. if i was you i would ditch the heat lamp and heat mat and replace it with a in fared bulb with bulb guard as this gives light and heat at the same time without stressing the snake out. you should also purchase a thermostat.... dimming thermostat for in fared bulb and pulse stat for ceramic bulb. somebody else more experienced will help more but that is the basics that i understand. its all a learning curve isn't it lol |
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Lotabob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
5008 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2012 : 21:10:31
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Hi Seven sins, welcome to the madhouse. I shall crack on with the first point of concern, several mentions of heat sources (I make it 2, a basking bulb and a heat mat) and no mention of a thermostat. This needs fixed ASAP, its vitally important to regulate the temperatures in your vivarium. The snake is probably constantly in the cold end because it is too hot in the hot end. If you can go out tomorrow and get one (£25) I would and turn off the heat mat until its installed, keep the room at about 20oC just to keep the snake functioning (if its just eaten in the past 48 hours dont turn the heating off)
You've hit the nail on the head with the analogue thermometers, they are useless and telling you what is happening in the air temperatures inside the thermometer and not a lot else.
Orchid bark when you buy it is quite soggy, I dry it out before use in the oven, I dont like moist substrate, the snake has to be on it all day long and moist bellies usually result in one thing; scale rot.
Day bulbs are a no no with Royals, and UV lights are also not required (a little bit of UV can be beneficial but they are nocturnal and hide underground through the day in the wild so dont expose themselves to daylight) UV can be used for maybe an hour or 2 a day, any more is over kill.
Oh your pictures need a [IMG] at the start of the link and a [/IMG*] (take the star out I had to put it in or it just tries to display a picture) at the end and it should display. I looked at the pictures through URL and he looks lovely though the house link doesn't work at all. |
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Lorraine
Yearling
United Kingdom
480 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2012 : 21:16:33
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Hi Seven. Welcome. Your viv looks great and Monty is lovely.
I use a heat mat although most on here really don't like them and wouldn't recommend them...especially when the snake is larger. But, you need a thermostat as that is the only sure way to regulate the temps. I wouldn't worry about her poo, they can go weeks, nor would I worry about inactivity that might be just because she really is settled and she may well be out and about in the evenings/nights when you can't see...but those with more knowledge will probably advise on that.
Personally I would remove a couple of the decorations, particularly that big thing front and centre, as I think some flat space to slither is a good thing. |
1.0.0 CB11 Normal Royal, Oscar.
1.0.0 German Shepherd, Bailey.
Still lots to learn. |
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Lorraine
Yearling
United Kingdom
480 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2012 : 21:17:16
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| Ooops, sorry Bob. Cross posted with you there. |
1.0.0 CB11 Normal Royal, Oscar.
1.0.0 German Shepherd, Bailey.
Still lots to learn. |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2012 : 21:55:25
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Hi all - thanks for the replies, I think I've the image links to work now too! Score! (thanks Lotabob!)
I forgot to mention the deal with the UV lamp strip - Well, that actually came with the "starter kit", as did the control module for it. I very quickly learned that Monty is pretty much nocturnal, so after a bit of reading up on here, worked out that as snakes get their vitamin D from processing the calcium in it's prays bones rather than "sunlight", the lamp is pretty much redundant. Seems like a waste of money!! I figured that seen as its there, I'd use it just as a light through daytime - No harm, right? (right??)
Hayes - I'm not sure, as all this talk of bulbs is pretty confusing, but I think the daylight basking lamp is a ceramic heatlamp, this is the one http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/daylight_basking_spot.php - however please feel free to correct me! A decent dual-probe digital thermometer is definitely on the shopping list. The moss will most likely be getting binned, just going to see how she likes it - it's barely even damp at the mo, will probably only use it the next time she starts shedding.
Lorraine - The big think in the middle is a hollow tree bark. I did take it out once, but Monty refuses to cross open ground and will move from one side to the other by going behind the tree root, So I only really put it back in there to fill up some space. I'll probably take it back out again when I next rearrange the tarranium, or maybe just cut it down a bit or something. Will see.
I'll definitely be getting a thermostat, and will most likely be ditching the heat mat once I'm a bit more clued up as to what type of lamp I should be using. Thanks for the help! :) |
www.royal-balls.blogspot.com
www.facebook.com/dandavisreptiles |
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hayes
Yearling
United Kingdom
115 Posts |
Posted - 26/02/2012 : 22:05:42
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| no... the ceramic bulbs do not give off any light at all.. just heat. the bulb you have won't really do monty any had but there is no need for it as long as the room she is in is light in the day and dark at night to identify the difference of day and night. i can see your pics now, your setup looks cool but as Lorraine says i would remove the thing at the front in-between the 2 hides. yeah id only use moss when shedding to help the process. personally i would ditch the heat mat and bulb and replace with a 100w infared bulb with guard and dimming thermostat but its entirely upto you. |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
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daz2708
Snake Mite
United Kingdom
33 Posts |
Posted - 27/02/2012 : 09:57:45
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| Hi sevens i'm pretty new to royals to but this is what i use and cleo seems pretty happy!! 100w infared bulb with microclimate dimmer on the bulb itself is in a ceramic holder as it can get quite hot then a heat guard over it to stop her burnin herself my hotside is around 90ish cool about 80!! as for sheddin i put a plastic box in hotside filled with moist spag moss and she loves it in there and skin came off ok couple of little bits on so gave her a warm bath for 10mins then put a damp pillow case for about 15mins seemed to do the trick!! any question ask these guys they've been very helpful to me hope that helps!! |
0.1.0 normal royal (Cleo)
1.0.0 het lavenda royal (hector)
Staffie (Boo)
And 67 Tarantula's :) |
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n/a
deleted
7384 Posts |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
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Lotabob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
5008 Posts |
Posted - 27/02/2012 : 13:14:07
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I'm going to swim against the tide and say that thing in the front should absolutley be left in for the reason you described, it gives a route between the hot and cold side and also a mid point hide should be choose to be not too hot, not too cold.
In the picture your bulb is not guarded and a nosey snake will easily burn itself on an unguarded bulb that and if they climb up they can actually smash bulbs just by gripping them. So you get cuts, burns and electrocution all from one incident. No guard = no bulb.
Unfortunatley shops seem to do this all the time and I cant figure out why, they'd still get their money if they set it up correctly from the get go and would prevent the worry and unexpected extra costs involved in setting it up. |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
Posted - 27/02/2012 : 13:26:25
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Hi Lotabob - you're right about the thing in the middle, it's a hollowed out tree bark, which she likes to hide under as a midpoint between the hot and cold sides. Without it in there, she seems very reluctant to move from one side to the other. It is a little on the large side though, so I might look at cutting it down a little.
The bulb - yeah, I'm sat here at work today panicking about her burning herself during the day. I only bought the bulb and fitting yesterday, I do need to get a guard ASAP - plus a stat.
Thanks to Burned and the very helpful links, I'm now considering placing an order for an IR bulb to replace my heat bulb, plus a dimmer stat. I think I can continue to use my bulb holder as it is porcelain (correct?). |
www.royal-balls.blogspot.com
www.facebook.com/dandavisreptiles |
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reptilemadd
Sub Adult
United Kingdom
969 Posts |
Posted - 27/02/2012 : 14:16:47
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| Hi Se7ens and welcome yes your bulb holder will be fine and as long as you get a guard for it so will your snake, as for the Uv studies for Leopard Geckos (who are also nocturnal) have shown that they benefit from the mild Uv rays at dawn and dusk so I'm guessing it wouldn't do a snake any harm either, but if your going to keep it I'd recommend changing it for a 2% bulb which is the lowest you can buy I know it's not much less than the one you've got but you never know lol |
1.0.0 beardie "magic"
1.1.0 100% Het Clown "Cerberus" and "Artemis"
0.1.0 Poss Calico "Ariadne"
1.0.0 Lesser " Kronos"
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
Posted - 27/02/2012 : 14:48:39
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quote:
Originally posted by reptilemadd
Hi Se7ens and welcome yes your bulb holder will be fine and as long as you get a guard for it so will your snake, as for the Uv studies for Leopard Geckos (who are also nocturnal) have shown that they benefit from the mild Uv rays at dawn and dusk so I'm guessing it wouldn't do a snake any harm either, but if your going to keep it I'd recommend changing it for a 2% bulb which is the lowest you can buy I know it's not much less than the one you've got but you never know lol
The UV lamp is being used purely as a light now, as the other "multi-purpose" heat lamp I have is fairly dim and doesn't light up the terrarium all that well. Aparently the UV bulbs expire fairly quickly, a year max, but will continue to work, just not kick out any UV.
It is quite bright though, so was thinking of replacing it with a general strip lamp at the lowest wattage to dim it down a little. I'll definitely need some sort of bulb in there if I replace my current heat bulb with an IR bulb. |
www.royal-balls.blogspot.com
www.facebook.com/dandavisreptiles |
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reptilemadd
Sub Adult
United Kingdom
969 Posts |
Posted - 27/02/2012 : 14:59:41
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| The problem is those Uv and any tube fitting will still get quite hot, hot enough to still burn Monty so if you want a light in there during the day using LED's would be best loads of light with very little heat certainly not enough to burn Monty....Not a lecture just some advise |
1.0.0 beardie "magic"
1.1.0 100% Het Clown "Cerberus" and "Artemis"
0.1.0 Poss Calico "Ariadne"
1.0.0 Lesser " Kronos"
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Kelfezond
The bearded one
United Kingdom
4803 Posts |
Posted - 27/02/2012 : 15:10:22
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| I wouldn't stress yourself out over an unguarded light- it is needed but it's not a "rush out in the middle of the night to get" kind of thing, Savina pulled her guard off about a week ago and I've not go around to getting the screws to put it back on yet but she's completely stopped interacting with the bulb since the guard came down, I very rarely see or hear about snakes actually interacting with the bulb so it's more a precaution against what could happen. |
\v/ Click me for Kelfezond Reptiles Facebook Page! \v/
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boomslang
Old Royal - I Post too much!
United Kingdom
2025 Posts |
Posted - 27/02/2012 : 15:20:54
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quote:
Originally posted by reptilemadd
The problem is those Uv and any tube fitting will still get quite hot, hot enough to still burn Monty so if you want a light in there during the day using LED's would be best loads of light with very little heat certainly not enough to burn Monty....Not a lecture just some advise
Uv tubes don't get hot.I just put my hand on one,thats been on for 8 hours.Its warm but not burning hot.
Anyway don't consider replacing the heat bulb,just do it when you order the rest.
quote:
The UV lamp is being used purely as a light now, as the other "multi-purpose" heat lamp I have is fairly dim and doesn't light up the terrarium all that well. Aparently the UV bulbs expire fairly quickly, a year max, but will continue to work, just not kick out any UV.
Just replace the mat and basking bulb,with another type of bulb.And what rating is this uv tube? it looks very blue so its not a 2.0.point is there's other types of tubes out there,that are cheaper if you just want light.
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1.0.0 pinstripe Royal Python
1.0.0 Bumblebee Royal Python
1.0.0 Normal corn
1.0.0 Extreme red Hognose
0.1.0 Extreme red tiger Hognose
1.1.0 yemen chameleons
1.0.0 Piebald yemen
1.0.0 Tamatave panther
1.0.0 Quadricornis
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Overbearing parent?
