| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| nok1888 |
Posted - 18/09/2010 : 11:36:52
Ive picked my viv its getting delivered next week, and said to them "will the heat mat be inside or outside the viv", Ive just had a reply saying....
"We do not recommend heat mats for heavy bodied snakes like Royals as they lay on them and because of there size they create hot spots on the heat mats which will slowly cook them causing burns"!!!
Frankly this has scared the sh..crap out of me! everywhere Ive read they say about using heat mats because the belly heat aids digestion.
The only thing I dont fancy about a ceramic bulb is that, you use a guard...the guards metal...does the lamp not heat the metal guard???
Also, im getting the 24" viv as its a 2010 im getting (im going to partition a part off so its not too big for him to start with) with the thought of moving up to the 36" in a few years when he'll apreciate a little more exploring room, but, they (same people as above) said its a myth that they "prefer small places because the jungle isnt small" so I should save myself money in the long term and just buy a 36 or 48" right off!? Im sure he cant be right suggesting a 48" viv for such a young snake
I just had a thought about using ceramic lamp will set up a basking area but you can leave it on 24hrs a day can you?
Sorry if i seem to be rambling, I thought I had everything sussed out on set up best for the snake and this has just rocked it all!!
(If theres another thread on this sorry about this one)
Can anyone give me advice please or point me to a website that specifically deals with heating do's n dont's
Thanks |
| 20 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| nok1888 |
Posted - 30/09/2010 : 12:08:42
I'll up her to the weener rats and a mouse (if she takes it). The weeners arent too much bigger than the large mice more in length than girth as Im sure you'll know. Once she's settled I'll be handling regularly to give her exercise so should work off her food |
| Snecklifter |
Posted - 30/09/2010 : 08:24:26
Sounds fine to me, only consider upping the temps now if there's a sea change in her behaviour like switching to the hot side for most of the time. With the feeding, best get an expert opinion but it seems to me that some snakes can be greedy (don't forget they're opportunist hunters). Mine would eat whatever you put in front of it and if that meant 7 days a week, it would. Reallly it would. So follow the recommended guidelines for feeding a snake of her age/size and no more because the last thing you want is an obese snake. |
| nok1888 |
Posted - 30/09/2010 : 00:22:40
Cool cheers m8. Shes in her cool hide with her head and about 3" of her neck outside looking ready to strike, to be honest I think the 2 large mice aint enough for her. but if she's lying with her head out she cant feel threatened I dont think |
| Snecklifter |
Posted - 29/09/2010 : 19:13:39
Well i'm no expert believe me, but those temps seem fine to me. I wouldn't raise either temp any more, especially if the snake seems to prefer the cooler side. Mine does too, only comes across to the hot side to bask in the morning and maybe in the evening. As long as the snake has the option to hide in the hot side at around 30-33 degrees then it has the option and will take it if required, assuming it isn't cowering in the cool side scared to move (which I doubt from what you've said) then leave it be. If it spent all its time in the hot side, I would consider raising the temps, but it aint, so don't. As long as its eating well and shedding well, you can be sure its happy with its environment. Time will tell, but I wouldn't change anything you've done to be honest. |
| nok1888 |
Posted - 29/09/2010 : 15:19:17
It seems like its doing well m8. I got it to the following
Warm hide inside - 29.4C (85F)
Warm hide outside - 31-33C (88-91F)
Cool hide inside - 23.6 (74F)
Cool hide outside - 25C (77F)
and the air temp seems fine
and its pretty much stayed that way since Monday, just very small variations usually 0.1-0.5C either side. I think the cool hide is a bit low for what Ive read but with the basking spot on top of her warm hide at 31-33C I didnt want to raise the temp any more than it is plus she seems to prefer the cool side so not sure whether to even attempt raising it or not. Im putting an energy saving bulb in which should help raise the temps on the cold side, they dont give off much heat so shouldnt raise temps too much I'll put it in a 3rd from the cool side so should help with temps but not too much.
Do you think these temps are close to what they should be? Ive not got a hygrometer yet (just waiting for delivery) so not sure of the humidity but Ive got the water bowl half on half off the heat mat so hoping its fine |
| Snecklifter |
Posted - 29/09/2010 : 13:45:12
How is it working out Nok? |
| anatess |
Posted - 26/09/2010 : 03:27:02
It does seem like there's conflicting info out there. When I was new to royals, it used to get me so confused. But I realized after a while that a lot of the differences are regional - different normal room environment (e.g. High room humidity in UK or Seattle compared to Florida, etc.) - or "personalization" (e.g. tubs versus display cages), or each royal's unique preference (e.g. Rat versus mouse), etc.
What I found out is that there are "general" guidelines to caring for royals that are sure-fire success - temperature, humidity, security, and prey item. The rest is up to your personal preference, the laws and availability of resources in your area, and the unique qualities of your particular royal. It is, after all, what makes this hobby so fun - the chance to personally get to know your royal! |
| nok1888 |
Posted - 24/09/2010 : 12:17:51
Cool cheers Roly |
| Snecklifter |
Posted - 24/09/2010 : 12:13:08
The humidity should be around 50% under normal circumstances, as others have said, thats about normal humidity in the UK at ambient temperatures, so you shouldn't need to add any moisture on a day to day basis. I use a normal size water dish placed in the hot side of the viv, this keeps the humidity around 55% (50-55% is fine). If the hunidity gets too much doing this in your viv, move the water dish to the cool side and wait to see what the humidity does over a day or so, if it drops too low, move the dish into the middle - half hot, half cold and see what happens.
The only time you really need to be upping the humidity is when the snake is in a shed cycle, after blueing. The snake may appreciate a humidity of 60% or even more at this time. To achieve this use either sphagnum (sp!) moss in a damp hide or mist with a spray once a day. Damp moss in a sealed tupperware container that has had holes punched in the lid is another option. |
| Welly |
Posted - 23/09/2010 : 23:35:35
quote:
Originally posted by Blackecho
I don't do anything to my vivs at all, room humidity and a large water bowl is fine for mine.
With exception of my BRB i'm the same |
| nok1888 |
Posted - 23/09/2010 : 22:14:43
Is it, thats what I mean about everywhere you go online tells you something different you dont know what to believe. If thats how you do it B.E I'll leave it at that, hopefully that'll work for me
Cheers m8 |
| Blackecho |
Posted - 23/09/2010 : 20:58:24
I don't do anything to my vivs at all, room humidity and a large water bowl is fine for mine. |
| nok1888 |
Posted - 23/09/2010 : 20:53:22
Aye m8 I'll be taking any adjustments slowly. Ive been looking up about the humidity and cant say im any further forward. Ive read just to put in some moss (spagnum i think it said) and others say mist the viv twice a week then others say only lightly mist when she starts to shed. Like I say, too much conflicting info out there, I'll be trawling through any threads on here i can find tonight to get up to scratch with it all before saturday |
| Snecklifter |
Posted - 23/09/2010 : 16:00:58
Oh and bare in mind that ceramic heaters work fine, but make sure they're guarded and that they reduce humidity much more quickly than bulbs. |
| Snecklifter |
Posted - 23/09/2010 : 15:57:18
Hope it works for you Nok1888. You can tinker with the thermostat settings by a degree or so each way to achieve the correct temperature gradient for your vivarium, or indeed, snake. Allow a day or so after adjustment to allow for the temps to settle down, don't be tempted to tinker too often because you're impatient. Assuming the mat is connected via the thermostat and you didn't make a mistake in set-up, then the snake will not physically be able to burn itself.
cheers. |
| nok1888 |
Posted - 22/09/2010 : 23:41:44
Cool thanks for the advice welly, I'll keep an eye on her habits and judge it as it goes small increases/decreases until she seems happy with it |
| Welly |
Posted - 22/09/2010 : 23:12:54
quote:
Originally posted by nok1888
Welly m8, theres just that much conflicting information on the internet so been trying to get as much information as I can on this website (where or who better to ask than all of you here), I realise all snakes are different but just wanted a general idea on whats best for the snake. Luckily Im getting a 2.5 y/o so viv size isnt an issue anymore. The main thing thats been worrying me is not only the warm/cool sides but the whole ambient air temp and getting a good temperature gradient throughout the tank as well as making sure I get the humidity right.
Im taking advice from all over the forum I just keep asking mostly (and probably to everyones annoyment lol) the same questions, I tend to over analyze and research which is probably whats left me so confused and clueless lol
Oh i agree with you completely. As for the gradiant:
If you place a ceramic too one side of the viv a few inches frm the wall it will heat that side of the viv up.
The rest of the viv will be at room temp so will go from ambient temp at one end to raised at ceramic end.
Works very well
As for getting the temps suitable for your snake just observe them over a few weeks and see which end it stays in the most and adjust from there. If they spend most of the week in the cold end turn the heat down and visa versa. Do this over a weeks period and through a feed and watch.
Thats what i have done. Not exactly gospel though. |
| nok1888 |
Posted - 22/09/2010 : 22:46:32
Welly m8, theres just that much conflicting information on the internet so been trying to get as much information as I can on this website (where or who better to ask than all of you here), I realise all snakes are different but just wanted a general idea on whats best for the snake. Luckily Im getting a 2.5 y/o so viv size isnt an issue anymore. The main thing thats been worrying me is not only the warm/cool sides but the whole ambient air temp and getting a good temperature gradient throughout the tank as well as making sure I get the humidity right.
Im taking advice from all over the forum I just keep asking mostly (and probably to everyones annoyment lol) the same questions, I tend to over analyze and research which is probably whats left me so confused and clueless lol |
| Welly |
Posted - 22/09/2010 : 22:28:39
Ok, Just to go against the the grain.....
I run mats and Ceramics in all 3 of my viv's. All of which are on Habistats.
They all live in 3 foot vivs from a fairly early age and to date i have only had one problem with feeding and that was converting Sabre (Royal) over to Rats.
My royal is around 12 months old @ 416g
My Kingsnake is around 9 months old @ 132g
My BRB is 6 months old @ 122g
All eat no problems and all are a good length and all are in good health.
All are in 3 foot viv's
Contraversial lol
The mats are all sat around 28 ish give or take. They are all inside the vivs and all covered with substrates.
All 3 of my snakes use them on and off and all three roam from cold ends to warm ends, high hides, moss pots etc.
None are stressed and none have had any problems to date that realate to heat.
|
| nok1888 |
Posted - 22/09/2010 : 22:00:03
Roly m8 that set up sounds bang on exactly what I was looking for without knowing how to if you know what I mean. I'll try replicate it cheers for the post m8
Anatess, I knew as soon as he said that it must be wrong. He actually told me to get a 36" even a 48" to save money, this was when I was planning to get a hatchling.
Ive found one on preloved thats looking for a new home, 2 and a half y/o normal with a 36" viv she's been in for a while so she'll be used to it now and she's about 3 feet so tank will be ok for a while. Its actually a good size I'll post a picture in the pic section. She comes on Saturday and cant wait, its my first. Its been 18 years since i saw my 1st Royal and dying for 1 ever since so.......WOO HOO lol |
