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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
 Posted - 31/07/2011 : 15:57:11
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Hi everyone, as you know I'm new to this and wanted some advice...
I got my 3-4 month old CF Royal Baby last week, and was originally going to house him in an old 30 inch(L) x 16 inch(H) x 12 inch (D) glass Jewel Aquarium. ( I since know this is not ideal).
I have since moved him into a 9 litre RUB which is inside the tank, with half on the 20W heat mat, which is underneath the glass tank, and the tank raised up 1cm on wooden supports to allow airflow.
I've put the thermometer probe ( digi thermometer, NOT from the thermostat) under his RUB between the glass and the container, on the warm side (over the heat mat).
I've got a hot & cold hide, the cold one with sphagnum moss (however you spell it) and that thicker type kitchen towel 3 layers deep for floor. Pottery water bowl and cork bark hide complete the picture.
Running the heat mat under half of the RUB I am getting temps (read under the RUB) of 33-35*C, controlled by a Microclimate DL1ME Microprocessor controlled 'dimming' stat, with built in Magic Eye for day/night drops (optional). Humidity in this set up is between 55-60.
I am happy with that end, and since the RUB is fairly small, I'm sure it's not heaps cooler the other end, although it is unheated.
Problem is, the heat mat provides no AMBIENT heat to speak of, and so the true cold end of the TANK (Not RUB, ya follow?)  only gets to about 22*C ( normal room temp plus maybe 1 or 2)
This is of no concern now, but going forward to when he's bigger, I want to have him in a viv, as I am not happy with the thermal dynamic of the glass tank.
I also bought a 'Clamp Lamp Ceramic Bulb holder' which has a wire 'guard' round it which wouldn't stop anything smaller than a badger from getting to it, so I wrapped the whole frame in a second layer of galvanized mesh. The problem is, it's so bloody HUGE that when I tried it in the tank it took up half of the hot end!
In the instructions it states it should be 40cm away from the animal. Now with only 16" (40cm) to play with, that 'aint gonna happen'.
Yesterday I switched the heat mat off and ran the 100W ceramic bulb (in huge monster wire mesh case) propped up off the floor, crammed in on the hot side, aiming at the RUB's warm end.
After some fine tuning I got the same sort of temps the warm end as with the mat, but the thermomter probe was this time on the nearest plastic wall to the heat lamp.
Very different results: Got the warm end up to a nice basky 34-35, and the whole tanks seemed to be much warmer, cold end being elevated to 27-29. Humidity dropped from 56 to 48 and the sides of the glass, and more worryingly, the hardened plastic 'aquarium lid' got quite hot to the touch. No burning hot, just like a radiator on low-medium.
Going forward, for safety and convenience, Percy will be staying in his RUB which he loves, and the heat mat *dimmer statted will be his only source of heat.
I do however plan to either buy or build a proper WOODEN vivarium (which is cheapest, really after 10 trips to B&Q to buy tools I'd need etc lol).
My question is...Say if in the near future I move him into a 24" x 18" x 18" wooden viv, how do you mount the ceramic element to be 40cm from the snake? Can anyone show any photos showing how it all works regarding headroom/gaurding etc, since I envisage the guard would get pretty bloody hot judging by the ferocity of my 100W ceramic yesterday!
P.S. I have just ordered a 40W Exo Terra ceramic since I think 100W might be too powerful, despite the efforts of the dimmer to tame it!
A lot of info, a lot of questions, I just want to have the [perfect set up by the time he's out of RUBs.
Meanwhile, is the heatmat going to be sufficent? He seems to sleep/rest in the warm end under his cork bark, then comes out and stretches out, bathing in his water bowl and slumping over his cold end hide.
I was told by the shop owner I bought the snake off not to use heat mats with a Royal as they are heavy bodied and will burn. Yet when in the shop he was in a RUB, on a heat mat, like most shop snakes.
Other info I read prior to getting him FAVOURED heat mats for Royals as they said in the wild they would seldom come out in the day and bask in the sun, as they'd get eaten by predators, instead favouring to hide away in rodent holes or under rocks in the day absorbing belly heat from the baked earth.
I must admit, I worry about the heat generated by the ceramic in my 'trial' and don't want to be paranoid about my house burning down etc.
The heat mat (being only 20W) seems a lot less threatening and statted correctly gives me peace of mind, but in a full viv, would it be too cold & damp with
just this form of heating (at the non heated end)?
Argh. Please help! 
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deleted
7384 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 16:19:55
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Ah. The heatmat vs ceramic (or infra-red bulb) question arises from the fact that if anything bulky, animal vegetable or mineral, rests for any length of time on a heat mat, even statted, thermal blocking MAY occur, which causes overheating, and since a royal python's main heat sense is situated in the heat pits on its face, it may not feel burning to its belly until extensive harm has been caused.
So that's why it's generally advised that an ambient heat source in a viv, guarded and statted, is safer. Heat mats are fine beneath rubs - but with heavy snakes the rub floor, being plastic, may become softened with the warmth and bow and touch the mat, so care must be taken to ensure an air gap.
There is still a lot of info about advising heat mats for royals - I started my first royal on a heat mat and never found out about thermal blocking until I started reading around on this forum. Luckily he was still tiny, so no harm done. Conversely, some people do like heat mats in vivs and use them with success.
It's possible to go a little bonkers with information overload lol!
I've never used a ceramic so will leave that to the people who know. I like the setup of viv, IR bulb, guard and stat. I keep temps at 32c in warm end, 26c in cool end.
I actually don't like heat mats directly under snakes, though a couple of corns have them, because wee can get dried out and is really hard to spot and clean ...ugh!
I've used rubs as a temporary measure, but the trouble with rubs is that the room where they're kept must be kept at a suitable ambient temp, as they don't keep the heat in like a wooden viv.
A good idea when the snake is small is to have a viv, with the rub in the viv, on a heat mat. Then when the snake growls larger and bolder it can transfer to the viv (with an ambient heat source.)
Hope this has helped with some of your questions - and sorry if I've overlapped with anyone else. All the best - it feels like rocket science at first but it does get better, honestly!
ah - ps - the cheapest vivs are flatpack viv-exotic from surrey pet supplies. |
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Lotabob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
5008 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 17:36:25
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This is my setup, with a few labels.
To be frank RUBS/fauns/glass tanks aren't great for Royals it may be unpopular thing to say but I shall explain 
RUBS = you can't achieve the right ambient temp
Fauns = you cant achiebe the right ambient temp and humidity
Glass = Shy snakes don't like been so exposed and glass loses heat quickly and any ventilation will be in the roof and that agin loses heat and humidity out too quickly.
In my opinion wooden vivariums are the only truely suitable housing for Royal pythons and everything else is just making do.
Your overcomplicating your setup having a RUB in a glass tank, airspaces, giant lamps, etc is too much and its no wonder its baffling you.
For now place the heatmat on a surface, then place the RUB so 50% is on the heatmat, stick the stat probe either to the mat itself or to the bottom of the RUB and a thermometer probe to the bottom of the RUB. Cover the hot end with a thin layer of substrate and slightly thicker in the cool end. You wont have any influence on ambient in a RUB so give up trying it won't ever happen, just place a thermometer probe in the cool end to ensure its not getting too cold (I would worry if it drops below 20oC, thats room temperature in a normal house so it shouldn't).
You dont need to make any measurements of anything happening in the glass tank, the snake isn't in there its in the RUB.
You can pick up flat pack vivariums for around £20-£30 if you shop around, far cheaper than making them yourself and fairly easy to build up.
With my Royal I have the ambient/air temp at around 24oC-26oC, and the hot spot only at 32oC, the snake spends most of his time in the ambient conditions and only visits the hotspot to warm up occasionally or after handling. You could never achieve the same conditions in a RUB/Faun you could in a glass tank but you'd need to cover over all but 1 of the sides to provide the snake some security.
EDIT TO ADD: You say he is getting in his waterbowl, that is a big warning sign that the hot end is too hot (providing he isn't shedding or has parasites). My Boa was doing the same thing ( I have her in a RUB) and I'd set it up to the word with the careshhets but had to turn the heat mat down by 3oC before she was comfotable and stopped bathing. |
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Edited by - Lotabob on 31/07/2011 17:43:08 |
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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 18:10:48
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Wow, two excellent, full and informative replies, already!
Thanks both of you for your clarification and advice. I'm going off RUBS by the minute! I am going to order a VivExotic 24 inch vivarium. I'm tempted to go for the 24 inch high one rather than the 16 inch as the heat generated by even a 'statted' ceramic scares the bejesus out of me, and I want it to be a bit higher, and out of the way. (By the way, the lamp isn't giant lol it's just the 'frame/cage thing' it came with, and my cladding of wire mesh that's made it look more like a knights helmet than something you'd find in a snake's home.
The model I was looking at was the VX24. Sadly Surrey Pet Supplies don't stock this model it seems, but I can get it for under £50 at Swell Reptiles.
I'm going to put a guard round the ceramic, which will be downsized from my 100W to a 40W for my own peace of mind, keeping the 100W in reserve for a harsh winter.
I was going to do all this at my leisure, but Lotabob's observations, and gritty home truths have made me want poor little Percy out of that RUB and in a decent, considered environment ASAP!
I agree with what you say about RUBs. I was sceptical as the idea of keeping a snake in a glorified lunch box seemed bizarre to me, but I can see why it appeals, (cheap, low space usage, minimal area to clean etc).
Faunariums just look to me like something people use to take their rabbit to the vet in, but then again isn't a RUB what we put our cheese in the fridge inside?
Are you all in agreement that despite the risk of Percy being 'overwhelmed' by a larger enclosure, he will be healthier and better off on the long run, as long as I get the layout and temps right & provide a range of hides all over?
Thanks guys for taking the time to reply, and thanks for the excellent photo (with labels) Lotabob, that went SOME way to allaying my fears of the whole thing erupting in flames with a bulb/heater so close to the 'wood'.
On the subject, has anyone ever heard of a Viv catching fire? It seems like a really bad idea in principle to put a heat source inside a wooden box, add an animal and expect not to come home to a pile of ashes! lol.
Will check back after I've BBQ'd some chicken drummers and sausages! :)
Keep the advice flowing, I'm like a sponge! (Or Sphagnum moss!)
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Lotabob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
5008 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 18:30:50
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Its almost impossible for them to catch fire, the flash point of wood (the point it will burst into flames without a flame already present is up in the 500oC range if I remember rightly I think its high 200oC's that it will burn at all so something would have to have gone very wrong to have them catch fire. There is a risk from the electrics side of things but regular checks on the wires, plugs and stats should reduce the risk as any damage would be spotted and replaced, as with everything electric if its damaged dont run it.
The RUB will be fine while the snake is small, I'm not a RUB fan but I use them, they make things easy with young snakes, though they dont create an ideal environment its not unsafe either, many snakes spend there days in RUBs without an issue. |
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7384 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 18:33:21
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Hi, rubs are fine as long as the room/viv they're kept in is warm enough. They're easier to clean than a viv, but I personally do like vivs. As for the space issue - I like plenty of space myself but pack the viv out well with hides/plants etc as royals, especially hatchlings in new homes, love loads of privacy/cover/dimness. Even so they're all different - it's impossible to predict what will suit Percy - some royals love a cramped enclosure; others thrive in more space and plenty of cover. You'll get to know what he likes as he grows up.
The only time I've heard of a viv in danger of catching fire was on another forum when someone used a viv with heatmat underneath ...thermal blocking again. I can't remember the exact circumstances and I'm certain nothing tragic happened but I believe the mat overheated and could have caused a fire, except fortunately the owner had had the sense to ask were they doing the right thing. I'm certain a statted bulb in the right fitting, guarded, couldn't cause a fire in a viv. Fingers crossed of course!
All the best. |
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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 19:15:37
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Ok, thanks again both of you for your prompt, succinct replies.
I am going to luanch 'Project Viv' henceforth. I feel rather bad that in the space of a week or two poor little Percy has been in a large tank and now is in a tub, and will soon have a THIRD new environment!
He hasn't fed yet (got him Thursday) and I'm going to try again next week. So I didn't want too much upheaval. Since the ambient temp is quite high at the moment (24oC according to my Central Heating controller.) should I keep him in the RUB for a while until he's settled and eating, or should I bite the bullet and get him into a nicely appointed 2ft viv with better a better heating arrangement.
Sorry to be such a pain, I am a total worrier (not warrior) when it comes to things like this, and when returning to the house these last few days if it's been empty have been bracing myself for a fleet of fire engines and my roof missing :|
Do the vivs (e.g VivExotics) normally come with the holes pre-postioned for lamp/heater or do I need some big bore drill routers to get the job done?
I'm sure when it's all done and Percy's comfy, happy & munching down his mice it will all seem worth the anguish and panic.
Hopefully my mistakes/fears will help other new/potential owners to avoid making the same mistakes! :)
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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 19:18:17
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..OH and Lotabob, what are the dimensions of your viv, and what make is it? It looks like a cracking job! I'd sleep in there myself!
P.s Just realised it's BurnedAtTheStake not Snake lol. Maybe that's where my fears of fires stem from!! lol! |
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deleted
7384 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 19:58:57
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LOL - that pun's occurred to me before ...
The vivexotics come with two small holes already drilled into the top of the back panel to allow for flexes - however I drilled a hole in the viv roof for the light flex, and one at the side of the floor for the stat probe. I hate trailing flexes; snakes climb on them and they look untidy. (I use a temp gun instead of thermometers.)
If Percy's settling nicely into his rub, I wouldn't worry about moving him straight away. As long as that mat is statted, it will be fine under the rub, and the tank should help to keep the ambient up - and at least it's summer, if you can call it summer.
LOL - I'm a worrybucket myself - know the feeling! If I haven't got up in the small hours and done a snake check and cat count, I feel conscience stricken. I think we're all the same ...
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Lotabob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
5008 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 20:07:51
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My viv is 2X1.5 feet and its a Nike woodenbox3000
I have no idea of the maker, it was in the reptile shop so I bought it. Its not a vivexotic though , they have branding on them mine doesn't have anything.
I'd leave him in the RUB if your house is at 24oC, thats a good ambient temp for a Royal and the heatmat will slightly increase the temp in the RUB too though I do recommend going to a shop immediately and buying some ice lollies, you must be baked in there.
I had a bit of worry about fire risks but you soon realise unless something really out of the ordinary has happened then its not going to pose a risk. |
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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
Posted - 31/07/2011 : 21:02:18
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I'll order one of those then!
Thanks for your help guys. I really appreciate it!
OK, enough snakes, time to watch Dragon's Den lol! |
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boomslang
Old Royal - I Post too much!
United Kingdom
2025 Posts |
Posted - 01/08/2011 : 21:14:46
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quote:
I have just ordered a 40W Exo Terra ceramic since I think 100W might be too powerful, despite the efforts of the dimmer to tame it!
Did you try a 60W? I've found 40w/60w bulbs do get to temp in 2/3 foot vivs,but only just,Meaning the bulb is on non stop.and the stat does very little.Plus in colder weather the bulb was no reserves to kick out.Run the bulb to for abit,some brands seem to cool down after a week lol.
Make sure theres a gap between the bottom of the ceramic and the cage,before you fit said cage.I try to get 3 inches min.That way the bottom of the cage is not lava hot LOL.
Cool side with ceramic,might get alittle hotter then 24oc.But that all depends on room temp,airflow etc etc. |
1.0.0 pinstripe Royal Python
1.0.0 Bumblebee Royal Python
1.0.0 Normal corn
1.0.0 Extreme red Hognose
0.1.0 Extreme red tiger Hognose
1.1.0 yemen chameleons
1.0.0 Piebald yemen
1.0.0 Tamatave panther
1.0.0 Quadricornis
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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2011 : 23:34:11
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I've ordered a Vivexotic VX24 2 ft wooden viv.
Should be here tomorrow. Am not happy with the baby in the RUB because of himidity, ambients and the like.
Going to set it up with a 40w Ceramic I've got coming, on a dimmer stat.
Will see how things go, and have he option now of a 100w or 40w ceramic, and a 50w Exo Terra Heat Glo bulb. All can be run off my dimmer or I also have a pulse stat on the way.
Would it be worth using the other stat to run the heat mat on a REALLY low setting (25oC) as a fail-safe if the bulb/ceramic packed up? It would be statted on a pulse prop stat and calibrated to only come on if temps fell below 25.
As you can tell, I really go to town and like a Belt & Braces approach.
P.s. How do you guys attach the ceramic holder to the roof of the viv?
I bought (in error) a 250w rated humungous Exo Terra Wire Lamp Clamp but with my makeshift anti-snake wire guard it's the size of a bloody table lamp! How on EARTH would I fit it in a 21" high viv and still allow Percy some room to manoeuvre?
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Edited by - SaltyTurtle on 02/08/2011 23:35:44 |
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Lotabob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
5008 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2011 : 23:49:57
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I use this guard http://livefoodonline.com/shop/article_621/ProRep-Spot-light-Bulb-Guard-Black.html?pse=apq, its powder coated too so it tends to not get too hot and very strong, I actually tripped over one laying on the floor in a dark room, it survived without even a dint unlike my toes.
Your snakey is tiny, you are going to have to REALLY pack out a vivarium full of hidey holes, foliage, branches etc or its very likely it will become very stressed and stop eating. Something simple like a load of cardboard tubes in there will help the snake to move around while keeping unseen. |
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Edited by - Lotabob on 02/08/2011 23:50:14 |
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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2011 : 00:04:27
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quote:
Originally posted by Lotabob
I use this guard http://livefoodonline.com/shop/article_621/ProRep-Spot-light-Bulb-Guard-Black.html?pse=apq, its powder coated too so it tends to not get too hot and very strong, I actually tripped over one laying on the floor in a dark room, it survived without even a dint unlike my toes.
Your snakey is tiny, you are going to have to REALLY pack out a vivarium full of hidey holes, foliage, branches etc or its very likely it will become very stressed and stop eating. Something simple like a load of cardboard tubes in there will help the snake to move around while keeping unseen.
Well it's not the first time I've heard that! But maybe from a man lol!
I know, he's just a tiddler, but I really hate to see him in a bloody sweaty lunchbox full of tea boxes and kitchen roll!
I am not happy with the ambient temps, and the humidity seems to soar at times, so I'm guessing low ambients & high humidity is going to equal a sneezing snakey in the near future. Plus when I had him in the glass tank (big mistako) he seemed quit active and was all over it like a fat kid on clubcard cake coupons.
What do you think of my lamp? I could make something like that one you've shown me easily as I have steel mesh similar at home, I can also get it powder coated for free if I desire.
I will ensure I fill it with so much 'stuff' (tubes, boxes, tubs, logs, fake plants, bark, you name it, that he'll be struggling to find daylight! Need I worry about the artificial plants or bark catching fire if it's the warm end? Also which is better under heat, silk or plastic?
Sooo many questions, so little snake. |
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boomslang
Old Royal - I Post too much!
United Kingdom
2025 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2011 : 00:05:58
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The Exo Terra Wire Lamp,is a outside of cage holder,I had one setup for my chams.The more open cage,seems to be there,only to stop humans touching it.I changed all mine for the dome types.
people use them for turtles to.
Sorry but think you will have one hell of a time.trying to fix it to the roof of your viv.does the holder come apart?and won't that take up nearly all your height on the one side?
silk plants are better,and look better to. |
1.0.0 pinstripe Royal Python
1.0.0 Bumblebee Royal Python
1.0.0 Normal corn
1.0.0 Extreme red Hognose
0.1.0 Extreme red tiger Hognose
1.1.0 yemen chameleons
1.0.0 Piebald yemen
1.0.0 Tamatave panther
1.0.0 Quadricornis
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Edited by - boomslang on 03/08/2011 00:09:47 |
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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2011 : 00:20:23
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 Yeah I screwed up.
I can dismantle it to the point where it's just a simple 250w rated ceramic bulb holder and put the other wire and clamps & shizz in a box in the garage. Ok, so I've then got something I could have got for a tenner, but HOW do I strap it to the roof of my new Vivien?
Those little guards just look like they do nothing, as in touching the wire over grannies 3 bar heater would still burn the shizzle out of your finger tizzles. |
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Lotabob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
5008 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2011 : 00:30:30
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nah if you see my picture I have fabric plants leaning over onto the guard, Its just not hot enough to spark a fire or even melt plastic. If it touched the surface of the bulb it may at best soften plastic but I'd think even the bulb surface will be about 50oC MAX (BATS will have to help with the experiment, she has a point and shoot laser thermometer).
In the lamp department, if you have a maplin near by you can pick up a ceramic bulb holder and heat resistant cable for less than a fiver, far easier to fix to the viv roof (and fire proof) then just rig up a guard that has at least 1cm clearance on all sides from the bulb, mine is 1cm and I wouldn't be overly worried about putting my hand on it, although the radiant heat smarts afetr a while.
I dont think there will be any harm puttting your snake in a viv, BUT your snake might have other ideas, if it refuses to feed (the no1 sign of stress in royals) then you may need to review its housing needs again, nothing unusual with royals though, its just how they are, they do say though sucessful Royal keepers are very calm people lol. |
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boomslang
Old Royal - I Post too much!
United Kingdom
2025 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2011 : 00:38:33
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quote:
Originally posted by SaltyTurtle
Yeah I screwed up.
I can dismantle it to the point where it's just a simple 250w rated ceramic bulb holder and put the other wire and clamps & shizz in a box in the garage. Ok, so I've then got something I could have got for a tenner, but HOW do I strap it to the roof of my new Vivien?
Those little guards just look like they do nothing, as in touching the wire over grannies 3 bar heater would still burn the shizzle out of your finger tizzles.
Reply from your other post,I drilled a hole and put a bracket on it.then made up a metal frame to drop the gaurd down more..so it dont get hot at all now.The cage fits via a plate,so had to drill a hole and pass the wiring up and out of the viv.only had to do this,as the holder and cage wouldn't allow me to fix the wires inside.
quote:
In the lamp department, if you have a maplin near by you can pick up a ceramic bulb holder and heat resistant cable for less than a fiver, far easier to fix to the viv roof (and fire proof) then just rig up a guard that has at least 1cm clearance on all sides from the bulb, mine is 1cm and I wouldn't be overly worried about putting my hand on it, although the radiant heat smarts afetr a while.
Do it like this.its so much easier are you going to use a ceramic or a red bulb? if you made your mind up yet :)
anyway id go for these guards.
Red bulb. http://www.surreypetsupplies.co.uk/spot-lamp-guards.html
Ceramic.http://www.surreypetsupplies.co.uk/ceramic-heater-guard.html
then get the holder and heat resistant cable from maplin,and you're sorted hehe.
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1.0.0 pinstripe Royal Python
1.0.0 Bumblebee Royal Python
1.0.0 Normal corn
1.0.0 Extreme red Hognose
0.1.0 Extreme red tiger Hognose
1.1.0 yemen chameleons
1.0.0 Piebald yemen
1.0.0 Tamatave panther
1.0.0 Quadricornis
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Edited by - boomslang on 03/08/2011 00:58:33 |
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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2011 : 01:00:07
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Well. If you look beyond the tangle of wire mesh & stuff on my Exo Terra Clamp Lamp pic, nestling beneath all that b**locks is a very Heavy Duty 250w ceramic bulb holder (as per Maplins, albeit 4 times the price!)
So what I want to know is, HOW does this white cylindrical bit of 'ceramic' actually hold itself fast to the roof? Sorry to appear thick after you've explained it, but I'm going to be stood there with a drill going, "err what?"
Is there a clamp/screw fitting, does it dangle, wedge, glue, what?
Also, if there's only a hole for the wire, I assume people chop off the plug & rewire it?
Sorry to be a total noob pain the the arse! |
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SaltyTurtle
Yearling
155 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2011 : 01:02:09
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Sorry I didn't answer about the bulb.
I've got 3 or will have tomorrow)
100w ceramic
40w ceramic
50w exo terra heat glo infra red bulb.
Since i'll have both a dimmer and a pulse, I could run a combo (overkill) but will start with 40w ceramic (since it's summer) and work up... |
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Heating question? Ceramic vs Heat Mat
