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blondie29
Hatchling
United Kingdom
54 Posts |
 Posted - 13/03/2012 : 13:03:11
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| we have had monty over a month now and he hasnt fed since we bought him home he has lost 38g in weight today is feeding day and iv got a rat and a mouse in my freezer what shall i offer him tonight? |
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Lotabob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
5008 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2012 : 13:15:11
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Before Janie gets in with her debate I'll say rats are a longer term better option for adult Royals and to avoid a snake getting 'hooked' on a prey item that doesn't get big enough to satisfy a Royal once its over about 600 grams so if it will take a rat then in my opinion it is a better option but if rats aren't on the menu and mice are then mice it is but go for rats first, see how you go.
How old is Monty? A lot of older Royals are fasting at the moment but I wouldn't expect a 38 Gram loss, did your Royal go to the toilet, its likely if it has, that accounts for all the weight loss and not the lack of food. Because its just new you cant rule out that it is still unsettled, is there a big difference between how you keep Monty and how Monty was kept before? Is it nice and dark where Monty is, no white lights on near etc? And finally are your temperatures good? |
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Edited by - Lotabob on 13/03/2012 13:16:13 |
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chrisc
Old Royal - I Post too much!
United Kingdom
3326 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2012 : 13:15:47
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what was his weight before the weight loss?
could offer both, i would leave them in the viv overnight an see if he takes one or both
how have you been offering feeds? |
1.0.0 burmese python,giblet. 1.0.0 BCI, william. 0.1.0 blue tongue skink, 0.1.0 green iguana, jasmin, 1.0.0 cape house snake, 0.1.0 checkered garter snake
my youtube. http://www.youtube.com/user/pegrocks
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blondie29
Hatchling
United Kingdom
54 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2012 : 13:36:51
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| hes about 20 months so a adult just over 3 foot he weight was 1110g he shed and pooed the first week we had him hes bright and alert active in the evening/night iv spoked to the shop where we got him from and they have offered to take him to try and get him feeding again temps are fine and the viv is the same lenght but not as wide but have been told thats ok and to get a bigger one in a few months |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2012 : 13:43:44
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He's a good weight so losing 38gr isn't an issue, even if this is weight loss rather than the difference between full and empty.
Do you know when he last fed? A month without a feed is nothing at all to a snake, and like Lotabob says, lots of Royals are fasting at the mo. Always worth a try, and I know its a shame to waste a mouse, but if he's hungry he will eat - its a good sign that he's active in the eve, clearly not stressed etc! |
www.royal-balls.blogspot.com
www.facebook.com/dandavisreptiles |
Edited by - Se7enS1ns on 13/03/2012 13:45:18 |
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blondie29
Hatchling
United Kingdom
54 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2012 : 14:02:01
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his last feed would have been around the 9th feb
its the size of the food the shop gave me its seems huge!! iv got smaller ones to try i think ill defrost both the rat and the mouse and see if he takes one! |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2012 : 15:21:41
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That does look on the large size! As a rule of thumb, the weight of the food should be 10 to 15% of that of the snake, and no larger than the widest point of the snales body.
Perhaps that's why he's not eating?? But honestly, A month is really nothing to worry about, its not even like us missing breakfast to them  |
www.royal-balls.blogspot.com
www.facebook.com/dandavisreptiles |
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n/a
deleted
7384 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2012 : 16:37:26
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Hi, My Shahi is just a couple of months older than Monty, and he's been fasting since Halloween. He had lost 40g by December, also after taking a dump.
It's perfectly normal behaviour for an adult royal - but I've had Shahi from a baby and know how he can eat so I'm more relaxed about it. If he was new I'd be anxious - even after 14 snakes it's a huge relief when they eat for the first time with you so I know how you feel - but never fear, he will!
ps, rat.  |
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anatess
Sub Adult
USA
669 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2012 : 18:16:26
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At over a kilo, he should be with rats by now (unless, he's never liked rats).
But yeah, that rat seems big - but it could be just the camera angle. You're probably in a situation where the mouse you got is too small and the rat too big... so he's not eating. Or, it could be that he's still in stress-out mode from the move.
Just give it time and offer the appropriate-size feed that his previous owner fed him. Now is not the time to switch to something else.
Good luck! |
        
Snake owner since Oct 2008, so yeah, I'm no expert.
0.1.0 pastel royal
1.0.0 spider royal
0.1.0 albino royal
1.0.0 bumblebee royal
1.0.0 yellowbelly royal
0.0.1 wild-type royal
1.0.0 normal western hognose |
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Lotabob
Royal Python Moderator
United Kingdom
5008 Posts |
Posted - 13/03/2012 : 19:56:29
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Yeah try dropping a rat size or even 2 if you like, the weigh loss if most likely the weight of poop lost. its also very possible that the move just jump started a fast but you cant rule out its just not happy in its vivarium. It looks a bit open and bright. Try covering most of the front with a towel, darken it down, buy some foliage, I recommend Dunelm Mill for plenty of cover and hiding places, then rather than tease feeding try drop feeding instead, just put the rat in and take yourself somewhere out the way for a few hours (or feed at night and just go to bed).
For a bit of info only my Duke is a shy shy snake, he only eats when nobody is watching and HATES light and been exposed. His viv is absolutely crammed full of stuff to keep him hidden.
He is in there somewhere lol. I dont handle him all that often either, maybe once a week if he is lucky and it works for him, keeps him happy anyway. |
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markmifsud
Sub Adult
United Kingdom
534 Posts |
Posted - 14/03/2012 : 10:09:46
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| So, did he feed last night? Can you weigh that rat, it does seem a bit big, I know mine would turn their noses up at that size |
1.1.0 Pastal Ball
1.0.0 Normal Ball aged 7(ish)
0.1.0 Normal Ball aged 7(ish)
Bromley. SE London |
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blondie29
Hatchling
United Kingdom
54 Posts |
Posted - 14/03/2012 : 11:51:54
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| hi he didnt feed last night i went down a rat size 3 weeks last night i offered a jumbo mouse and a rat that was the same size size he shows intrest but dosnt strike ill get some greenery and leave that light off its a uv light so its not needed im not too worried but my hubby is convinced hes gonna starve himself to death! |
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blondie29
Hatchling
United Kingdom
54 Posts |
Posted - 27/03/2012 : 22:08:59
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| still not fed iv put some ivy in the viv to give him more hiding im going to call the shop again tomorrow |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
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blondie29
Hatchling
United Kingdom
54 Posts |
Posted - 28/03/2012 : 09:48:43
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| in the viv thats how hes always been fed aparentley the only things i havnt tried are a drive in the car but i dont drive! and putting something that vibrates on the viv |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
Posted - 28/03/2012 : 10:58:59
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A drive! That’s the first time I’ve ever heard that!! :D
Ok I’m a massive believer in feeding outside the viv for a few reasons. Here is my feeding technique, I’m sure everyone has there own set of golden rules which work for them just fine, but this one is mine, which so far (touch wood) has worked every week without fail – including feeds within the first week of getting my pair home, and later switching from mice to rats:
• I make sure I handle the snakes every single day at around 8pm or later, without fail, even if only for a couple of minutes. Apart from on feeding day!
• The day before feed day, whilst handling them, I weigh them and make a note of their weight, plus take a measurement of the girth of the largest part of their bodies.
• Feed day: At some point in the afternoon I choose a mouse/rat from the freezer that is between 10-15% of the snakes weight, or smaller if they haven’t fed in a while, and measure it to make sure it is slimmer than the snake. I pop this in a freezer bag / sandwich bag, and leave on top of the snakes vivarium to thaw (it’s warm up there!).
• Around 9pm: I stick the kettle on, and get the water hot (not boiling) and poor into a bowl. With the mouse still in its bag, I make sure it’s properly thawed (floppy), then dip the head (covered with the bag) into the water for around 30 seconds.
• I get my feeding box ready: This is just a large shallow card board box (it must stink of mice by now!), and put it on the floor of the room. I go round the house letting everyone know that I’m feeding the snakes so that they don’t walk in and disturb us. The cats are locked in the living room. The mouse is then removed from the bag and placed at one end of the box, with the feeding tongs kept close by. The lights are then turned off, with just a lamp on for dim lighting.
• Snakey-wakey! Time to get the snake out. 9pm should be late enough in the evening for them to not feel too rudely awakened. The dim lighting helps to not stress them out. I sit on the floor and let them have a crawl round my arms / neck for a few minutes to make sure they are properly awake. The smell of the warm prey seem to wet their whistle too! Any one else who is in the room with me (friends like to observe) is allowed under the instruction they also sit on the floor and stick to whispers.
• Action Time: The snake is then lowered in the box to the opposite side of the mouse, and guided in head first with one hand. With my other hand I’ve got the rat held with the tongs at the base of its tail and am wiggling it around on the floor of the box. I try to mimic the rat being cornered and “running around”, but always facing the snake. I make sure I’m as far back as I can be, sat on the floor, and not leaning over the box. I never dangle the rat from above!
• The snake should start paying attention and taking interest here – if it goes to get out of the box it most likely means it hasn’t noticed the rat, so I guide the snake back into the box with one hand and work a little harder at making a bit of noise with the wiggling of the rat (its claws on the cardboard help here!). Once the snake starts flicking it tounge rapidly and slowly moving directly towards the rat, I know we’re in business, and a strike is about to happen – I’ll quit with the tongs here as to not put the snake off, but I make sure the head is facing the snake to allow for a clean strike.
• Once it’s struck and coiled, I just sit back and allow the snake to take care of the rest. The only time I’ll get involved is if the snake has insisted on eating the rat bum first and given up to defeat. If the snake goes to wander off, I’ll repeat the above and start wiggling the rat again.
• After the snake has finished swallowing the rat, it should be obvious when it’s finished, as it’ll suddenly gain interest in its surroundings again and makes a point of moving to the edges of the box. Time to go back into the viv – I never pick the snake up here, as I don’t want to promote a regurge – instead I carry the box to the vivarium and allow the snake to climb back into the viv unaided. Success! :D
A little patience goes a long way here, and spending the time getting the conditions right is worth it. I set a time limit of 15 minutes “wiggling time” – if the snake hasn’t struck the rat in this time, or seems persistent on escaping the box, I know it’s not going to happen – but so far and with a little luck and lots of patience, I have had a 100% success rate, which I’m obviously pleased with!! Because I use the same technique week in, week out, and the same smelly box, my snakes just seem to know what’s going on and get themselves all excited – they now strike within seconds of going into the box, sometimes I don’t even have chance to get my tongs on the rats tail!
Hope this helps, and good luck!
Dan
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www.royal-balls.blogspot.com
www.facebook.com/dandavisreptiles |
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blondie29
Hatchling
United Kingdom
54 Posts |
Posted - 29/03/2012 : 13:54:22
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| thanks dan lots of info there iv been told not to handle him too much as it can stress them out and put them off their food ill try that next week |
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Se7enS1ns
Yearling
United Kingdom
354 Posts |
Posted - 29/03/2012 : 14:44:45
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It's true, overhandling can definitely stress them out and can cause them not to eat, so you kind of have to use your own gut feeling to decide how best to approach your snakes. I personally view it as the more often I handle them, the more they get used to it and realise its no cause for alarm.
Forgot to mention, I do not handle for a minimum of 24 hours after a feed! |
www.royal-balls.blogspot.com
www.facebook.com/dandavisreptiles |
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shall i try a rat or mouse?
